Going back to the good old Chardonnay and turning back to the wines of the old world, toward the region, which, according to many wine fans, it is the purest expression of Chablis.

In fact, the character of Chablis is so distinctive that its the best representatives of the inspire sommeliers and critics on writing new epithets, which can accurately determine what kind of fault it is. “The minerality of Chablis” became a legend, amazingly unanimously picked up by the wine community, despite the fact that consensus about what is this “minerality”, none today.

The prose master of wine Hugh Johnson speaks of this wine as:

“Taste and aroma, it develops, are the essence of unfathomable nature, which can have only a young Chablis. I can describe it as a combination of aromas of Apple and hay with taste of Lollipop on a background of mineral notes, as if produced from the depths of the earth.”

For me the uniqueness of the Chardonnay of Chablis in its unusual salty character, like a tiny squirt, inhale while walking on the sandy beach along the busy winter sea – throats invigorating breeze, settling on his lips salty aftertaste.

There is only one wine on earth that I know such a tantalizing caveat is the Spanish sherry Manzanilla.

The Union is striking, almost pure citric acidity silicon steel with the inimitable note, which may be in Chablis, giving it an incomparable liveliness, which is not able to play any other region in no other country in the world. There is no other wine which is not touched by the barrel Chardonnay was able so to reveal your character.

Nevertheless, we cannot say that Chablis is Chardonnay in its purest form. Although most manufacturers these days don’t use oak barrels (at least the fermentation is now largely carried out in large steel tanks at a controlled temperature), remains great scope for process variations in the processing of grapes and the vinification process.

I also noticed how easily many manufacturers get away with the presence in their wines “marmitako” ducky from long aging on the lees (the practice of infusing wine on the spent yeast and products of their autolysis) and important tones of sulphur, sometimes blamed on the nuances of the “classic Chablis”. However, these “classics” can not find understanding among fans of New world wines, prefer crystal-clear wine.

Well, there are producers in Chablis, which carry out the fermentation in oak. Immediately come to mind Domaine Raveneau (Equal to) – of course, the great producer of the region, whose red wine and is fermented and aged in large 1-7 – year-old oak faeth (feuillettes – traditional barrels on 132л).

But it’s Raveneau. But many winemakers are simpler, which, after fermentation, your wine poured from stainless steel in oak barrels, I believe, engaged in adultery, trying to seduce the mass market Chardonnay, which is understandable, “delicious” vanilla tone oak, but not finely-honed style of Chablis.

It is also worth noting the characteristic knitting greens, typical of Chablis level “village” (ie just Chablis) and Petit Chablis. And it’s not a lack, it is good in its own right: it is rather juicy slice of green Granny Smith Apple instead of yellow Golden delicious.

In fact, I was faced with the fact that I sometimes find so difficult to acquaint the lovers of Chardonnay with Chablis – so that they are imbued with – that I sometimes think that it is better not to say it’s a Chardonnay – is so at odds with the style of Chablis with a narrow-minded ideas about “good wine” from Chardonnay.

It is important to understand that this Northern region of Burgundy, which has more to do with extreme champagne in terms of climate and mode of ripening grapes than the more illustrious areas to the South of the Chardonnay – Chassagne & Pulingy Montrachet.

In the 1970-80s, and to some extent today, the reputation of Chablis has suffered from over-popularity of the brand “Chablis” and as a consequence of overproduction of wine in the region as well as from the fact that around the world, winemakers tried to copy this style or just plain parasitized on title: any vigorous white wine can be called Chablis.

I noticed that I subconsciously was trying to protect the good name of Chablis, suffering from inept imitators, facing a growing snobbery towards him by the fans of white wines of Burgundy.

The Genesis of Chablis, of course – in his terroir, especially soil – Kimmeridgian deposits (named the upper Jurassic period) and Portland subsoil.

The hierarchy of the four appellations of Chablis in ascending order is as follows: Petit Chablis, Chablis (just as Chablis), premiers CRUs and Grands CRUs.

The Grand CRU vineyards and the most famous of the premiers CRUs lie on the right Bank of the serein river, taking advantage of good exposure (orientation relative to the sun) and ,as a rule, in the middle of the hill, where optimal soil drainage and ripening berries.

When it comes to ordinary Chablis, it is always a question of knowledge of the producers and their vineyards. In the case of wines large merchants about the locations of the vineyards to talk is not necessary: they collect Chardonnay throughout Chablis.

This is just the strong side Domaine Billaud-Simon, Chablis because his village is made exclusively from its own grapes farms with vines growing only on the best – kimmerijskih the soil around their vineyards are Grand CRU and premiers CRUs.

In my opinion, it is so well evident in their wines that they surpass many premiers CRUs from other manufacturers, though the price is much more accessible to them.

Domaine billaud-Simon, without a doubt, is among the top producers of Chablis. Personally, I think he argues for the championship with Francois Raveno (Domaine Raveneau) – and it’s probably a matter of preference in style.

The village of Chablis Billaud Simon 2008 – my home duty white today. Taking into consideration the small quantity of this wine, I am afraid that my friends and drink…

Thanks to its excellent freshness, it goes well at the start, and the whole long evening. And with oysters, of course, it’s amazing. At our table the combination of Chablis Billaud Simon with a couple dozen oysters went perfectly and generated a lively encouragement and enthusiasm from how freakin ‘ delicious this is a textbook combination. Divine!

Another recent discovery was how perfectly suited to each other Chablis and Curry Laksa (Malaysian spicy dish with curry and seafood). And again – not only in terms of compatibility of tastes, and in like energy, in a harmonious mix of lemongrass spice, spice ginger and Laksa leaf with brisk citrus acidity of Chablis. Just gastronomy of Feng Shui 🙂

Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis 2008:
tasting notes

Nose is Sharp citric tone with a distinct note of sea salt and chalky minerality. Sellistest gives way to sweet aromas of custard, dried bananas, rolled oats and waxy hue of cream cheese.

After standing in the glass, the wine is replaced by a tone with aromas of freshly cut green Apple and fresh lemon on the sweet aromas of coconut meat and lemon pie, but all the time retained a distinctive gun-flint, a steel shade.

Mouth
Taste – juicy and energetic from beginning to end, filling the mouth with green Apple and lemon, tantalizing and sharp, with a salty motif in the style of sherry Manzanilla, natural and smooth, lasting on the background of stable lemon and gravel minerality. No hint of the oak and shade, reminiscent of wasabi in the aftertaste.

The type of wine that you expect in your glass, once on the Champs Elysees.

Although most Chablis AC wines designed to be drunk young, this wine will surely benefit from 2-3 years of delay in the cellar. And then 5 years or more, if you fail to open it before.

A consummate favorite in the category of Chablis AC with a very attractive price tag.

Tasted Chablis at a basic level, discover Premier Cru and Grand Cru in their amazing versatility, reflecting the unique terroir of Chablis.