{"id":8279,"date":"2020-01-14T23:08:28","date_gmt":"2020-01-14T20:08:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/pinot-noir-od-sancerre\/"},"modified":"2020-01-14T23:08:28","modified_gmt":"2020-01-14T20:08:28","slug":"pinot-noir-od-sancerre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/pinot-noir-od-sancerre\/","title":{"rendered":"Pinot Noir od Sancerre"},"content":{"rendered":"

\nSancerre (FR. Sancerre) je pr\u00e1vom sl\u00e1vny pre jeho v\u00edn zo Sauvignon Blanc, ale je \u010das, aby venovali pozornos\u0165 miestne \u010derven\u00e9. S\u00fa m\u00e1lo, ale oni st\u00e1le zarobi\u0165 poves\u0165 pre ich kvalitu a eleganciu Burgundsko.\n<\/p>\n

\nSancerre v \u010d\u00edslach: <\/p>\n

Appellation: 1936 \u2013 biela (Sauvignon Blanc), 1959 \u2013 \u010derven\u00e1 a ru\u017eov\u00e1 (Pinot Noir) <\/p>\n

Realiz\u00e1tor: 308 vin\u00e1rstvo, 21 obchodn\u00edka-v\u00fdrobcov 1 co-op <\/p>\n

V\u00fdroba: (2013) 169,73 Kapitola 81% white, 11% \u010derven\u00e9, 8% ru\u017eov\u00e1\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\n „Boh \u017eije na V\u00fdchode“, \u2013 reverently \u0161epk\u00e1 Jean-Laurent Vacheron (Jean-Laurent Vacheron), okolo poh\u00e1rom \u010derven\u00e9ho v\u00edna na svojich farm\u00e1ch. Mekkou pre Vacheron je Burgundsko. Pre\u0161iel cez to \u0161iroko \u010faleko, u\u010denie sa zo sk\u00fasenost\u00ed z najlep\u0161\u00edch odborn\u00edkov a je oddan\u00fd obdivovate\u013e pochvala tu odr\u00f4d \u2013 Pinot Noir.\n <\/p>\n

\nV Sancerre, ktor\u00e9ho meno je \u00fazko spojen\u00e9 s Sauvignon Blanc ako Chablis s Chardonnay, v\u00e1\u0161e\u0148 pre Pinot Noir m\u00f4\u017ee zda\u0165 nezvy\u010dajn\u00e9. Ale hne\u010f, ako „\u010derven\u00e9 revol\u00facie“ sa rozbieha, fan\u00fa\u0161ikov tejto odrody v Centr\u00e1lnej \u010dasti Loire je st\u00e1le viac.\n <\/p>\n

\nZd\u00e1 sa, \u017ee v ka\u017edom regi\u00f3ne, ktor\u00e1 m\u00f4\u017ee sp\u00f4sobi\u0165 to, \u017ee sa sna\u017e\u00ed urobi\u0165, sna\u017e\u00ed uspokoji\u0165 nen\u00e1sytn\u00fd dopyt po franc\u00fazsky Pinot Noir. Ale pokrok v Loire nie s\u00fa odpove\u010fou na American road movie „bokom“ v roku 2004.\n <\/p>\n

\nV skuto\u010dnosti, a\u017e k\u00fdm 1860s, ke\u010f fylox\u00e9re epid\u00e9mie kosenie miestnych vin\u00edc, Sancerre pre takmer sedem storo\u010d\u00ed bol zn\u00e1my pre svoje \u010derven\u00e9 v\u00edna. Boli pod\u00e1van\u00e9 do Kr\u00e1\u013eovsk\u00e9ho stola na oboch stran\u00e1ch anglick\u00fd kan\u00e1l.\n <\/p>\n

\nPo fylox\u00e9re, vin\u00edc Sancerre boli vysaden\u00e9 preva\u017ene s Sauvignon Blanc. Expert „Decanter“ v\u00edno Loire Jim pride\u013euje dve zl\u00e9 d\u00f4vodov: \u017ee prv\u00e9 o\u010dkovanie Pinot Noir na Americk\u00e9 korene neboli tak \u00faspe\u0161n\u00e9, ako je Sauvignon Blanc, a zmeny v legislat\u00edve, v d\u00f4sledku ktor\u00fdch v\u00fdrobcovia Sancerre u\u017e neboli schopn\u00ed da\u0165 Pinot Noir v champagne.\n <\/p>\n

\nTak\u017ee Sancerre bol zn\u00e1my pre svoje biele v\u00edna. V roku 1936 bola udelen\u00e1 appellation jeho Sauvignon, a 23 rokov nesk\u00f4r \u2013 \u010derven\u00e9 a ru\u017eov\u00e9 v\u00edna z Pinot Noir.\n <\/p>\n

\nDnes 22% z vinice s\u00fa Pinot Noir (\u010das\u0165, ktor\u00e1 sa nezmenila od \u010dias fylox\u00e9re). V rovnakom \u010dase, aj napriek tomu, \u017ee 57% z v\u00edna Sancerre vyvezen\u00fd, menej ako 3% z t\u00fdchto v\u00edn s\u00fa \u010derven\u00e9.\n <\/p>\n

\nPinot z tejto oblasti nebola nikdy ob\u013e\u00faben\u00e9 (hoci by som mohol, pravdepodobne) ako Cabernet franc z Bourgueil (Bourgueil), Chinon (Chinon) a Saumur-Villiers (Saumur-Villiers). A hoci mnoh\u00ed z nich \u013eahko, s vysokou pr\u00edrodnou kyslos\u0165 (svetlo v\u00edn, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa dobr\u00e9 chladen\u00e9 n\u00e1poje), viac a viac v\u00fdrobcov v Sancerre robi\u0165 v\u00e1\u017ene, pln\u00e9 \u010derven\u00e9, ktor\u00e9 m\u00f4\u017eu s\u00fa\u0165a\u017ei\u0165 s Burgundsko a top CRU.\n <\/p>\n

\nA to nie je ni\u010d prekvapuj\u00face. „Sme bli\u017e\u0161ie k c\u00f4te d‘ or, ako mnoh\u00e9 oblasti Loire, a m\u00e1me rovnak\u00e9 p\u00f4de,“ hovor\u00ed Jean-Laurent Vacheron, ktor\u00ed s jeho bratranec Dominik predstavuj\u00fa 4. gener\u00e1cie na \u010dele tejto renomovanej farmy v Centr\u00e1lnej \u010dasti Sancerre. V roku 2004 boli certifikovan\u00e9 ako biodynamick\u00e9.\n <\/p>\n

\nTu 11.5 ha s Pinot Noir je venova\u0165 rovnak\u00fa pozornos\u0165 a starostlivos\u0165 ako 38 hekt\u00e1rov s Sauvignon Blanc. Orient\u00e1lny \u0161t\u00fdl bol odr\u00e1\u017ea aj vo vinici aj v pivnici. „Pou\u017e\u00edvame Burgundian pr\u00edstup,“ vysvet\u013euje Jean-Laurent, ktor\u00fd pracoval v Burgundsku a v Kalifornii. „Rob\u00edme kompost, zbiera\u0165 v\u0161etky manu\u00e1lne, veneficium oblasti, samostatne, zoraden\u00e9 v\u0161etko ve\u013emi starostlivo…“\n <\/p>\n

\n „Maxim\u00e1lny v\u00fdnos m\u00e1me 40glha. bude to vy\u0161\u0161ie a zrie\u010fovac\u00ed efekt bude okam\u017eite vidite\u013en\u00e9. To bol probl\u00e9m st\u00e1le Pinot Noir zo Sancerre: ve\u013ek\u00fdmi objemami v\u00fdroby, ale \u013eahk\u00fd, tekut\u00fd v\u00edna.“\n <\/p>\n

\nRob\u00ed s\u00e1m c\u00edtil a ve\u013ek\u00fd rozdiel v denn\u00fdch a no\u010dn\u00fdch tepl\u00f4t, oproti Burgundsko. Z tohto d\u00f4vodu poruchy viac svie\u017ee t\u00f3ny mal\u00edn a brusn\u00edc, ako \u010dere\u0161\u0148a, a pikantn\u00e9-ostr\u00e1 zlo\u017eitos\u0165, ktor\u00e1 je odli\u0161n\u00e1 od zemit\u00e9 t\u00f3ny z Burgundska.\n <\/p>\n

\nP\u00f4dy a \u0161t\u00fdly
\n <\/h3>\n

\nJedine\u010dn\u00fd p\u00f4dy Sancerre, samozrejme, jedn\u00fdm z k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00fdch bodov.\n <\/p>\n

\nO 40% vin\u00edc, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa rozdelen\u00e9 do bielej v\u00e1pencovej-\u00edlovit\u00fdch zem\u00edn Z\u00e1padnej \u010dasti regi\u00f3nu, na mnoh\u00fdch strm\u00fdch svahoch v bl\u00edzkosti Buis a Chavignol, s n\u00e1zvom „Terre Blanche“ (terres blanche)<\/b>, t. j. „white p\u00f4dy“, ktor\u00e9 patria k najlep\u0161\u00edm vin\u00edc, ako je Sauvignon Blanc a Pinot Noir, spolu s Eastern hills okolo Sancerre, s miner\u00e1lne oblast\u00ed (o 20% appellation), urobil znakom „zbra\u0148“ t\u00f3n, a v\u0161etky „mineralita“, ako aj kyslos\u0165 miestnych v\u00edn.\n <\/p>\n

\nV ostatn\u00fdch vin\u00edc \u2013 \u0161trkom alebo v\u00e1penec, \u0161trk.\n <\/p>\n

\nSk\u00faste Belle Dame<\/b> \u2013 top Cuv\u00e9e z Domaine Vacheron je 45-rok-star\u00e9 vinice, aby pochopili, \u010do je chu\u0165 \u010derven\u00e9 Burgundsk\u00e9 v\u00edno z Loire.\n <\/p>\n

\nCel\u00fd zoskupen\u00ed, bez destemming trva\u0165 10 dn\u00ed, podrobi\u0165 studenej kvasenie a pas\u00edvne \u0165a\u017eby. „V\u00fdzvou je, aby sa zabr\u00e1nilo vysychaniu tan\u00edny typick\u00e9 z hrozna dopestovan\u00e9ho na paz\u00farik. Preto na\u0161e v\u00edna s\u00fa zreje vo ve\u013ek\u00fdch star\u00fdch sudov, vertik\u00e1lne,“ vysvet\u013euje Vacheron.\n <\/p>\n

\n „P\u00e1\u010di sa mi viac \u0161trukt\u00farovan\u00e9 Pinot v \u0161t\u00fdle Bon Mar, ale sna\u017e\u00edme sa meni\u0165 nebude, a elegantn\u00fd, aromatick\u00fdch \u0161t\u00fdl Volnay, z\u00e1stancom, ktor\u00fd bol m\u00f4j star\u00fd otec. Mysl\u00edm, \u017ee m\u00f4\u017eeme n\u00e1js\u0165 uprostred,“ s \u00fasmevom hovor\u00ed.\n <\/p>\n

\nNa Domaine Vincent Pinard v Buis bratia Florent a Clem Bin\u00e1rne kultiv\u00e1ciu 4.5 ha Pinot Noir v jeho 17-getaroom majetku pomocou biodynamick\u00e9 pr\u00edstup. Ich v\u00edna s\u00fa pestovan\u00e9 na „Terre Blanche“ a da\u0165 menej \u013eahk\u00e9 v\u00edno ako Vacheron, ale aj nemus\u00edte nedostatok \u010derstv\u00e9ho odvolanie. Dve miestne \u010derven\u00e9 Cuv\u00e9e \u2013 Charlouise<\/strong> a Vendanges Enti\u00e8re<\/strong> (Vendange Entier) \u2013 s rovnakou 50-rok-star\u00fd v\u00edna, d\u00e1va 38\u0433\u043bha. V Vendanges Entiere neplat\u00ed destemming. Obaja s\u00fa niektor\u00e9 z najlep\u0161\u00edch \u010derven\u00e9 v\u00edna v regi\u00f3ne.\n <\/p>\n

\nZl\u00e9 Jim pozn\u00e1mky polovici 1990, ako zlomov\u00fd bod „\u010derven\u00e9 revol\u00facie“ zo Sancerre, ke\u010f mlad\u00e1 gener\u00e1cia vin\u00e1rov sa rozhodol urobi\u0165 v\u00e1\u017ene Pinot.\n <\/p>\n

\nMedzi nimi Vacheron, Pinard, Pascal a Nicolas Reverdy. Ke\u010f vydala svoje Mellot Cuv\u00e9e G\u00e9n\u00e9ration XIX<\/b>, to bolo nemo\u017en\u00e9, aby venovali pozornos\u0165; na tento de\u0148, toto v\u00edno zost\u00e1va jedn\u00fdm z definovanie \u0161tandardov.\n <\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\u010cerven\u00e1 Sancerre Reverdy et Sp\u013a\u0148a<\/p>\n

\nDo roku 2002, v\u00fdstup v\u00edno klesol z 60\u0433\u043bha na 40gl \/ ha, a ruka-trhanie a starostliv\u00e9 triedenie v vinohradov a vin\u00e1rstva sa stala normou. Ve\u013ek\u00e9 sudy nahr\u00e1dzaj\u00fa mal\u00e9 barriques a \u010derstv\u00e9 ovocie gama objavil spoza pl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 dub. Tieto jednoduch\u00e9 a jasn\u00e9 predstavy v \u010derven\u00fdch v\u00edn sa kone\u010dne nevenoval ve\u013ek\u00fa pozornos\u0165.\n <\/p>\n

\n\u010eal\u0161ia gener\u00e1cia
\n <\/h3>\n

\nNa Domaine De H\u00e1\u010dkovanie zameran\u00edm na \u010derven\u00e9 v\u00edna predt\u00fdm priradenie appellation biele v\u00edna Sancerre v roku 1936. To je nezvy\u010dajn\u00e9, preto\u017ee v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina fariem a za\u010dala rodina nalia\u0165 v\u00edno v pozostalosti len 20 rokov nesk\u00f4r. Dnes ich nehnute\u013enost\u00ed v Buis je hrd\u00fd na svoj najmodernej\u0161ie vin\u00e1rstvo, a jeho syn Lucien \u2013 Gilles je jeden z najviac talentovan\u00fdch vin\u00e1rov pr\u00e1ca s \u010derven\u00e9 v\u00edna sa v tejto oblasti. V jeho starosti 9 hekt\u00e1rov Pinot Noir v 38-getaroom ekologick\u00e9ho po\u013enohospod\u00e1rstva.\n <\/p>\n

\nCroix du Roy<\/strong> (Croix de Roy) je mix s nieko\u013eko str\u00e1nok, 60%, ktor\u00e1 je vo veku za rok v sudoch, potom blendermedia a je dovyderzhka v n\u00e1dobe pred plnenie do flia\u0161.\n <\/p>\n

\nCuv\u00e9e Prestige je vyr\u00e1ban\u00fd len v najlep\u0161\u00edch rokoch, s najstar\u0161\u00edch vin\u00edc (50 rokov), zreje v dubov\u00fdch sudoch (40% nov\u00fdch) pre 20 mesiacov pred prepusten\u00edm.\n <\/p>\n

\nV Verdine, na Domaine Andr\u00e9 Dezat pokra\u010duje jeho skvel\u00fd zakladate\u013eov. 40 ha farmy, len 7 s\u00fa vyhraden\u00e9 pre Pinot Noir, a iba 5 z nich \u00eds\u0165 na v\u00fdrobu \u010derven\u00e9ho v\u00edna. Av\u0161ak farme tvrdia, \u017ee sa im venovali mimoriadnu pozornos\u0165.\n <\/p>\n

\n „Samozrejme, chceme, aby sa najlep\u0161\u00ed Pinot v Sancerre, hovor\u00ed Firman, husbandman po\u013enohospod\u00e1rstva. \u2013 Ver\u00edm, \u017ee na\u0161a Pinot je u\u017e ve\u013emi dobr\u00e1. Maj\u00fa Burgundian \u0161t\u00fdl. Ale sme st\u00e1le mlad\u00ed. Ke\u010f sk\u00fasenost\u00ed bude lep\u0161ie a my sa presun\u00fa\u0165 na organick\u00e9 hnojiv\u00e1, \u017ee bude e\u0161te lep\u0161ie. Nechceme, aby radik\u00e1lne zmeni\u0165 to, \u010do bolo vykonan\u00e9 pod\u013ea na\u0161ich otcov a dedko, pracujeme na jemn\u00e9 ladenie. Mnoh\u00e9 mal\u00e9 zmeny m\u00f4\u017eu prinies\u0165 vidite\u013en\u00e9 v\u00fdsledky.“\n <\/p>\n

\nA klasick\u00e9 cuv\u00e9e z vin\u00edc nad 30 rokov, a prest\u00ed\u017ene, s hrozna od 60 ro\u010dn\u00fd v\u00edna, vyroben\u00e9 z drift cel\u00e9ho berry bez hrebene, s pr\u00eddavkom stla\u010den\u00e9 hrozno, ak chcete nas\u00fdten\u00fd farbu. Klasick\u00e9 cuv\u00e9e je vo veku do 2-5 ro\u010dn\u00fd sudoch. Prestige \u2013 100% v nov\u00fdch dubov\u00fdch.\n <\/p>\n

\nVysk\u00fa\u0161anie novej gener\u00e1cie v\u00edna 2013 \u2013 hust\u00e9, s t\u00f3nmi sladk\u00e9ho drievka a \u010diernych r\u00edbezl\u00ed cukr\u00edky \u2013 mysl\u00edm si, \u017ee jeden z t\u00fdch mal\u00fdch inov\u00e1cie by mali by\u0165 potla\u010denie t\u00f3ny nov\u00fdch dubov\u00fdch v jemn\u00e1 palety ovocia. Ale nech to bolo \u010doko\u013evek, 2006\u0439 Pinot poslednej gener\u00e1cie \u2013 \u00fa\u017easne \u010dist\u00fd mot\u00edv cherry rajnice \u2013 demon\u0161truje potenci\u00e1l tohto v\u00edna pre starnutie.\n <\/p>\n

\nVzh\u013eadom na to, \u017ee zmeny s\u00fa st\u00e1le prebiehaj\u00fa, BAA presved\u010den\u00fd, \u017ee je to \u0165a\u017ek\u00e9 pos\u00fadi\u0165 schopnos\u0165 nov\u00e9 Pinot od Sancerre pre starnutie. Aj ke\u010f tieto v\u00edna maj\u00fa vysok\u00fa prirodzen\u00fa kyslos\u0165. „Som ochutnal v\u00edna v roku 1996, ktor\u00fd bol celkom v dobrej kond\u00edcii, tak\u017ee m\u00f4\u017eem poveda\u0165, \u017ee ur\u010dite 10, 15 aj 20 rokov pre dobr\u00fd rok… \u010das uk\u00e1\u017ee.“\n <\/p>\n

\nSancerre m\u00e1 vyhn\u00fa\u0165 probl\u00e9my s po\u010das\u00edm, sa stalo s in\u00fdm regi\u00f3nom Franc\u00fazska, tak, \u017ee posledn\u00e9 ro\u010dn\u00edkov s\u00fa celkom slu\u0161n\u00e9. 2014\u0439<\/b> zl\u00e9 odpor\u00fa\u010da, aby sa chyti\u0165 pri prvej pr\u00edle\u017eitosti. A 2010, 1009, 2008 a 2006<\/b>, ak sa v\u00e1m podar\u00ed n\u00e1js\u0165 ich.\n <\/p>\n

\nVe\u013ea zmien, ktor\u00e9 sa vyskytli po\u010das posledn\u00fdch 20 rokov \u010derven\u00e9 v\u00edna Sancerre. Najlep\u0161ie z nich si zasl\u00fa\u017ei viac pozornosti, ako sa na\u010falej zlep\u0161ova\u0165.\n <\/p>\n

\nMo\u017eno, \u017ee Boh \u017eije na V\u00fdchode, pod\u013ea Jean-Laurent Vacheron, ale to je jasne dbal modlitby niektor\u00fdch vin\u00e1rov Centr\u00e1lnej Loire. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Sancerre (FR. Sancerre) je pr\u00e1vom sl\u00e1vny pre jeho v\u00edn zo Sauvignon Blanc, ale je \u010das, aby venovali pozornos\u0165 miestne \u010derven\u00e9. S\u00fa m\u00e1lo, ale…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[45],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8279","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-suvisiace-informacie"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8279","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8279"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8279\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8279"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8279"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8279"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}