{"id":8250,"date":"2020-01-14T22:05:42","date_gmt":"2020-01-14T19:05:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/rioja\/"},"modified":"2020-01-14T22:05:42","modified_gmt":"2020-01-14T19:05:42","slug":"rioja","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/rioja\/","title":{"rendered":"Rioja"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>\n

\nMilovn\u00edkov \u0161panielskych v\u00edn Rioja je schopn\u00fd pon\u00faknu\u0165 v\u0161etko, od jednoduch\u00fdch, ktor\u00ed nevedia, dub z tradi\u010dn\u00e9ho v\u00edna zrej\u00fa v Americk\u00fdch dubov\u00fdch Tempranillo z trendy modern\u00fdch zmes\u00ed na max zameran\u00fd na „terroir“ vzorky.\n<\/p>\n

\nV tomto \u010dl\u00e1nku, Master of Wine Sarah Jane Evans (Sarah Jane Evans, MW) sk\u00fama r\u00f4zne \u0161t\u00fdly Rioja.\n<\/p>\n

N\u00e1\u0161 pr\u00edbeh za\u010d\u00edna na 1980m : dovtedy, tam bol \u017eiadne form\u00e1lne rozdelenie v\u00edno Rioja „Crianza“ (crianza), „reserva“ (reserva) a „Gran reserva“ (gran reserva). \u0160t\u00edtky pred 1980, sta\u010d\u00ed da\u0165 plodiny rok. Zatia\u013e \u010do vo f\u013ea\u0161i m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 \u010doko\u013evek, od dub \u0161t\u00fdl „Grand reserve“ na carbonitesm macer\u00e1ciou v \u0161t\u00fdle Beaujolais Nouveau.\n<\/p>\n

\nTrvalo to 20 rokov, \u010do bola nov\u00e1 vlna modern\u00e9 Rioja. Tieto v\u00edna, na rozdiel od tradi\u010dn\u00fdch, dal \u017eiadne z\u00e1ruky na vek.\n<\/p>\n

\n\u010eal\u0161\u00edch 15 rokov \u00eds\u0165, zamerania odroda a terroir.\n<\/p>\n

\nZa p\u00e1r desa\u0165ro\u010d\u00ed jednoduch\u00e9 z\u00e1klady v\u00edno Rioja sa uk\u00e1zalo by\u0165 rozmazan\u00e9. Na druhej strane, 35 rokov nesk\u00f4r, obraz, op\u00e4\u0165 sa za\u010d\u00edna objavova\u0165.\n<\/p>\n

Tradi\u010dn\u00e9 verzus modern\u00e9 Rioja<\/h2>\n

\nPod\u013ea n\u00e1zoru v\u00e4\u010d\u0161iny tradi\u010dn\u00fdch Rioja starej \u0161kole je v\u00fdrazne veku v Americk\u00fdch dubov\u00fdch v\u00edna preva\u017ene z Tempranillo, nie s\u00fa ve\u013emi hust\u00e9, s miernym obsahom alkoholu a charakteristick\u00fa v\u00f4\u0148u veku, ve\u013emi harmonick\u00e9 a elegantn\u00e9.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nV bodega Rioja st\u00e1le dr\u017e\u00ed ve\u013ea flia\u0161 toto v\u00edno, a \u0161panielskych re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed s ich vlastn\u00e9 pivnice st\u00e1le pred\u00e1va\u0165 ich za ve\u013emi rozumn\u00e9 ceny.\n<\/p>\n

\nTieto v\u00edna nie s\u00fa \u010dast\u00fdm hos\u0165om medzin\u00e1rodn\u00fdch burz\u00e1ch. Ale z\u00e1ujem o ne je neust\u00e1le rastie. To, \u010do sa bude vyr\u00e1ba\u0165 dnes Rioja za 50 rokov?\n<\/p>\n

\nTieto v\u00edna maj\u00fa zmenen\u00e9. Dokonca aj z\u00e1stancovia klasiky s\u00fa dnes venova\u0165 v\u00e4\u010d\u0161iu pozornos\u0165 a v\u00edno a vin\u00e1rstvo. Mnoh\u00e9 tradi\u010dn\u00e9 v\u00edna s\u00fa zn\u00e1mky modernosti.\n<\/p>\n

\nNaozaj znakom Rioja je nov\u00e9 vlny sa stal intenz\u00edvne farby a super koncentrovanej charakter t\u00fdchto v\u00edn, v\u010faka ktorej sa pridali fan\u00fa\u0161ikov medzi milovn\u00edkov s\u00fdto \u010derven\u00e9 plody.\n<\/p>\n

\nToto v\u00edno je v\u00fdsledkom zamerania sa na v\u00edna, najm\u00e4 v oblasti v\u00fdskumu klony (ako t\u00fdch, ktor\u00e9 sa vykon\u00e1vaj\u00fa Roda, napr\u00edklad), v\u00fdnos zn\u00ed\u017eenie, kvasenie, samostatn\u00e9 mal\u00fdch d\u00e1vkach a starnutie v franc\u00fazskeho duba.\n<\/p>\n

\n\u010casto, tieto boli v\u00edna zo 100% Tempranillo. S\u00fa uveden\u00e9 na trh po tak dlhej zrenia v sudochflia\u0161. Okrem \u010disto \u0161tylistick\u00e9 \u00fa\u010dinky, to je nepochybne zauj\u00edmavej\u0161ie, vin\u00e1r z komer\u010dn\u00e9ho h\u013eadiska, preto\u017ee zr\u00fdch\u013euje n\u00e1vratnos\u0165 invest\u00edci\u00ed.\n<\/p>\n

\u010cistota zlo\u017eitosti<\/h3>\n

\u010eakujem Bohu, \u010dasy atrament, sladk\u00fd a prehnane dub Rioja sa zd\u00e1, \u017ee pre\u0161li. Dnes tento regi\u00f3n pon\u00faka skvel\u00fd paletu mo\u017enost\u00ed. K\u00fdm je e\u0161te miesto pre v\u00fdskum, tak ako v ka\u017edej vinohradn\u00edckej oblasti na tejto \u00farovni.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nMa\u0165 dub: v\u00edno v\u00fdrobcov „Gran reserva“, zmes z franc\u00fazskeho a Americk\u00e9ho duba, vr\u00e1tane t\u00fdch, ktor\u00ed sa e\u0161te doned\u00e1vna bola v\u00fdlu\u010dne v nov\u00fdch franc\u00fazskych sudoch. Nen\u00e1sytn\u00fd pou\u017e\u00edvanie dubov\u00fdch je postupne d\u00e1va\u0165 cestu k v\u00fdrobe ucelenej\u0161\u00ed a komplexnej\u0161\u00ed v\u00edna.\n<\/p>\n

\nAko pre odr\u00f4d, dne\u0161n\u00e9 vin\u00e1rov robia \u010disto Tempranillo. Osobne d\u00e1vam prednos\u0165 zmesi. Samotn\u00e9 pou\u017eitie jedn\u00e9ho druhu nenesie v\u00fdhody, okrem jasn\u00e9 ozna\u010denie.\n<\/p>\n

\nMazuela (Carignan), Garnachu a Graciano u\u017e dlho hral mal\u00fa, ale d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00fa \u00falohu. Ako Cabernet Sauvignon, ktor\u00e9 sa objavili v Rioja z Marques de Riscal v roku 1862. V posledn\u00fdch rokoch tu bol trend pou\u017e\u00edvania t\u00fdchto „Junior“ druhov v s\u00f3lov\u00fd v\u00fdkon. Contino Graciano z tzv naj\u00faspe\u0161nej\u0161\u00edch pr\u00edpade, najm\u00e4 vzh\u013eadom na n\u00e1ro\u010dnos\u0165 pr\u00e1ce s tejto odrody.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nNa Garnachu z teplej\u0161\u00edch \u010dastiach Rioja na dlh\u00fa dobu pou\u017e\u00edva v zmesi, vin\u00e1ri je chladnej\u0161ie \u010dasti Rioja Alta. Teraz Garnachu sa objavil siln\u00fd z\u00e1stanca v osobe Alvaro Palacios (Alvaro Palacios, Tvorca v\u00edno „L’ermita“), ktor\u00e9 pracuj\u00fa na obnovenie poves\u0165 tejto odrody vo V\u00fdchodnej \u010dasti Rioja, v Alfaro (La Rioja Baja). M\u00f4\u017eete h\u013eada\u0165 to Valmira v\u00edno z Garnachu zo star\u00fdch vin\u00edc \u2013 „ve\u013emi Burgundian, ve\u013emi vo\u0148av\u00e9.“\n<\/p>\n

\nZ nov\u00e1\u010dikov, vinice objav\u00ed odr\u00f4d, ako s\u00fa Tinta pod\u013ea mena Maturana (Maturana Tinta, \u010derven\u00e1 menom Maturana), pri\u010dom \u010derven\u00e9 v\u00edno dobr\u00fd obsah kysel\u00edn; a Tempranillo Blanco (Tempranillo Blanco, Tempranillo biela) \u2013 genetickej mut\u00e1cie Tempranillo, ktor\u00e1 s\u013eubuje pln\u00e9 biele v\u00edno, nie ch\u00fdba svie\u017eos\u0165. <\/p>\n

Ale oni e\u0161te potrebuj\u00fa \u010das, aby forma a za\u010dn\u00fa produkova\u0165 vidite\u013en\u00e9 \u00farodu.\n<\/p>\n

Pri h\u013eadan\u00ed terroir<\/h3>\n

V z\u00e1sade plat\u00ed, \u017ee trend poslednej doby je ni\u010d nov\u00e9. Je vzostupu novej gener\u00e1cie producentov, ktor\u00ed chc\u00fa najlep\u0161ie vyjadrenie charakter ich vin\u00edc. Goble prerez\u00e1vanie, star\u00e9 vinice, menej nov\u00fdch dubov\u00fdch, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa obsiahnut\u00e9 v ich \u0161t\u00fdle prvky.\n<\/p>\n

\nObtia\u017enos\u0165 je, \u017ee Rioja je geologicky ve\u013emi r\u00f4znorod\u00e9ho regi\u00f3nu, ktor\u00fd sa nach\u00e1dza medzi r\u00f4znymi pohor\u00ed na oboch stran\u00e1ch rieky Ebro. Tam s\u00fa v\u00e1penec-\u00edlovit\u00e9 hliny a hlinito-\u017eelezn\u00fdch a rie\u010dnych sedimentoch.\n<\/p>\n

\nAk zjednodu\u0161en\u00e9, Rioja Alta<\/strong> (Rioja Alta), ktor\u00e1 sa nach\u00e1dza nad zvy\u0161ok na Z\u00e1pade, \u010dasto d\u00e1va viac uvo\u013enen\u00fd v\u00edno, s jasn\u00fdmi ovocie. Na Sever od rieky Ebro \u2013 La Rioja alavesa<\/strong> (Rioja Alavesa) \u2013 z\u00e1\u0161titou Tempranillo: viac pln\u00e9, \u010derstvej\u0161ie v\u00edno.\n<\/p>\n

\nLa Rioja Baja<\/strong> (Rioja Baja) na V\u00fdchode teplej\u0161ie, doln\u00e9 p\u00f4dy (z\u00e1vlahy je povolen\u00e9, tu), s v\u00fdraznej\u0161ou Stredomorsk\u00e9 podnebie: tu s\u00fa bohat\u00e9 v\u00edno s najvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm obsahom alkoholu.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nNiektor\u00e9 ve\u013ek\u00e9 v\u00fdrobcovia rad\u0161ej kombin\u00e1ciu v\u00edn z r\u00f4znych vin\u00edc, in\u00ed sa sna\u017eia Vyjadri\u0165 svoje individu\u00e1lne terroirs (medzi nimi Benjamin Romeo, David Sampedro Gil, Olivier Riviere, Abel Mendoza a Telmo Rodriguez).\n<\/p>\n

\nAk odstr\u00e1nite dva extr\u00e9my \u2013 t. j. tie lacn\u00e9, masov\u00fd trh zna\u010diek a smie\u0161ne dom\u00fd\u0161\u013eav\u00fd f\u013ea\u0161a s strangled dub Tempranillo a v strede bude pobyt \u0161irok\u00e9 a pestr\u00e9 spektrum, ktor\u00e9 je dobre stoj\u00ed za presk\u00famanie. Vyberte si nie\u010do pre seba, nalejte poh\u00e1r a prem\u00fd\u0161\u013ea\u0165 o tom, \u017ee ka\u017ed\u00e1 trad\u00edcia, ako sa hovor\u00ed, za\u010dalo ako inov\u00e1cie. Rioja je pravda, ako kedyko\u013evek predt\u00fdm. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Milovn\u00edkov \u0161panielskych v\u00edn Rioja je schopn\u00fd pon\u00faknu\u0165 v\u0161etko, od jednoduch\u00fdch, ktor\u00ed nevedia, dub z tradi\u010dn\u00e9ho v\u00edna zrej\u00fa v Americk\u00fdch dubov\u00fdch Tempranillo z trendy…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[45],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8250","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-suvisiace-informacie"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8250","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8250"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8250\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8250"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8250"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8250"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}