{"id":8244,"date":"2020-01-14T22:02:19","date_gmt":"2020-01-14T19:02:19","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/premiova-kategoria-pre-spanielsky-cava\/"},"modified":"2020-01-14T22:02:19","modified_gmt":"2020-01-14T19:02:19","slug":"premiova-kategoria-pre-spanielsky-cava","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/premiova-kategoria-pre-spanielsky-cava\/","title":{"rendered":"Pr\u00e9miov\u00e1 kateg\u00f3ria pre \u0161panielsky Cava"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"cite\">\n St\u013apiky pre \u010dasopisu Decanter, Andrew Jeffords n\u00e1zvom pre Katal\u00e1nsku diskutova\u0165 inov\u00e1cie v \u0161panielske v\u00edna kateg\u00f3ria klasifik\u00e1cie <strong>Paraje de Cava<\/strong> (cava de Paraje)\n <\/p>\n<p>    <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/b2df244deaf3e1439dd88469df825e0f.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<p>\nTu je probl\u00e9m.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nLacn\u00e9 cava sa naz\u00fdva lom. A &#8222;Enoteca Brut Nature&#8220; z Gramona, f\u013ea\u0161a, ktor\u00e1 sa pred\u00e1va v Lond\u00fdne, na \u00a3160 \u2013 aj cava. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 rozpo\u010dtu pop svetozn\u00e1me, a vysoko kvalitn\u00e9 \u0161umiv\u00e9 \u2013 \u010d.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nNa Cava nem\u00e1 Grands CRUs alebo premi\u00e9ri dielce Cru, alebo sub-regi\u00f3nov, \u010d trieda prestige cuv\u00e9e, \u017eiadne explicitn\u00e9 marketingu detuning ve\u013ek\u00e9 domy od mal\u00fdch pestovate\u013eov-v\u00fdrobcov.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nTam je len cava.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nA nie nevyhnutne aj pou\u017eitie hrozna dopestovan\u00e9ho v Katal\u00e1nsku, najm\u00e4 na v\u00e1pencov\u00fdch p\u00f4dach z kopca Penedes, nehovoriac iba pomocou miestnych odr\u00f4d.\n<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/21e52c6631d5f441aa0963bb3046f054.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<p class=\"thesis\">\nV zozname 241 v\u00fdrobca Cava (v roku 2015) \u2013 cel\u00e1 mapa \u0160panielska z Extremadura do krajiny Basques, vr\u00e1tane Rioja. V zozname povolen\u00fdch odr\u00f4d \u2013 v\u0161adepr\u00edtomn\u00e9 Chardonnay a Pinot Noir (ale nie Pinot Meunier, napodiv).\n<\/p>\n<p>\nNa appellation (DO Cava) je pomerne mlad\u00fd \u2013 len od roku 1986. A objem v\u00fdroby je ve\u013emi p\u00f4sobiv\u00e9. Na konci, ako v\u00edno zna\u010dky cava nie je pr\u00edli\u0161 miesta. Nieko\u013eko spotrebite\u013eov vedie\u0165, ako sa v pohode m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 toto v\u00edno, a m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 ve\u013emi expres\u00edvne, jeho vz\u0165ah s terroir. \u010casto ho k\u00fapi\u0165 ako lacn\u00e1 alternat\u00edva na \u0161ampansk\u00e9.\n <\/p>\n<p> <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/dccf5abf584936f87b725e0a9996b428.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<p>\n &#8222;Vo v\u0161etk\u00fdch v\u00edn, \u2013 Predseda spr\u00e1vnej Rady v jaskyni, tam je pr\u00e9miov\u00e1 kateg\u00f3ria. Je to potrebn\u00e9 z h\u013eadiska obrazu, a logika kontroly kvality. Pyram\u00eddy kvality by mal by\u0165 hore&#8220;. V\u00edna z cava tento vrchol je. Ale ona sa stratil v hmle.\n <\/p>\n<p>\nPrv\u00fd krok k n\u00e1jdeniu jasnos\u0165 \u2013 syst\u00e9m, v ktorom m\u00f4\u017eete zv\u00fdrazni\u0165 aspekty kvality. V j\u00fani roku 2016 vl\u00e1da kone\u010dne navrhovan\u00fd syst\u00e9m s n\u00e1zvom Cava de Paraje.\n<\/p>\n<p class=\"thesis\">\n<strong>Paraje (Paraje)<\/strong> je prelo\u017een\u00e9 ako &#8222;miesto&#8220;, &#8222;\u00fazemie&#8220;.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nNiektor\u00ed interpretuj\u00fa ako &#8222;samostatn\u00e9 dom\u00e1cnosti&#8220; (jednej nehnute\u013enosti), ale v skuto\u010dnosti, to &#8222;jedin\u00fd vinice&#8220; (single vineyard) \u2013 \u010das\u0165 pozemku.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nAko vo\u013eby boli pova\u017eovan\u00e9 za, ale bolo zamietnut\u00fdch: heredad (v skuto\u010dnosti, hospod\u00e1rstvo), finca (panstvo, ka\u0161tie\u013e), parcela (da\u0165) a Pago (pozemkov).\n<\/p>\n<p>\nPrezent\u00e1cia novej triedy medzi po\u017eiadavkami bolo:\n<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li> maxim\u00e1lny hekt\u00e1rov\u00fd 8000 kg alebo 48 GL <\/li>\n<li> 36 mesiacov minim\u00e1lne starnutia vo f\u013ea\u0161i<\/li>\n<li> len ro\u010dn\u00edka v\u00edno<\/li>\n<li> such\u00e9 \u2013 len Brut a vy\u0161\u0161ie (p\u00f4dy)<\/li>\n<li> vinice s\u00fa star\u0161ie ako 10 rokov<\/li>\n<li> ustanoven\u00e9ho postupu certifik\u00e1cie str\u00e1nky<\/li>\n<li> organoleptick\u00e9 po\u017eiadavky na z\u00e1kladn\u00fa a hotov\u00fdch v\u00edn<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>\nAv\u0161ak, nesk\u00f4r, boli tam viacer\u00e9 zauj\u00edmav\u00e9 momenty. Najd\u00f4le\u017eitej\u0161ie z nich \u2013 stav, v ktorom kateg\u00f3rii Cava de Paraje mo\u017eno pou\u017ei\u0165 len v\u00fdrobcovia beneficiosa najmenej 85% svojich surov\u00edn. I. e. t\u00ed, ktor\u00ed najm\u00e4 pou\u017ei\u0165 n\u00e1kup a existuje mnoho \u2013 bud\u00fa vynechan\u00e9.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nVinice, vyhlasova\u0165 stav Paraje mus\u00ed by\u0165 v 100% vlastn\u00edctve v\u00fdrobcu a beneficiates samostatne aspo\u0148 tri z poslednej \u00farody. Acidifik\u00e1cia v\u00edna je zak\u00e1zan\u00e9 (pre \u0161tandardn\u00e9 Cava je v platnosti), a prirodzen\u00fa kyslos\u0165 hotov\u00e9ho v\u00edna by nemala by\u0165 pod 5,5 g \/ l (kyselina v\u00ednna), zatia\u013e \u010do pre be\u017en\u00fa v\u00edna cava, t\u00e1to po\u017eiadavka bola ned\u00e1vno zn\u00ed\u017eil na 5 g \/ L.\n<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/b4009e8359fa22f396c1b9835f160e98.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<p>\nPlus, Pedro Bonet, Predseda spr\u00e1vnej Rady cava, dosiahol v Madride kateg\u00f3rie priradenie Cava de Paraje stav tretej \u0160panielsko &#8222;kvalifikovan\u00fd&#8220; appellation (DOC) \u2013 ako Rioja a Priorat. Na be\u017en\u00e9 pozorovate\u013e, sa to m\u00f4\u017ee zda\u0165 zanedbate\u013en\u00e9, byrokratick\u00e9 detail, ale pre priemysel, to je v\u00e1\u017ena vec.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nSp\u00fdtal som sa, Pedro Bonete pre\u010do triedy Cava del Paraje Calificado nie s\u00fa obmedzen\u00e9 len na miestnych odr\u00f4d. Tu je to, \u010do on povedal: &#8222;rozpr\u00e1vali Sme sa ve\u013ea o tejto t\u00e9me. V z\u00e1sade \u00c1no. Ale skuto\u010dnos\u0165, \u017ee in\u00e9 druhy s\u00fa povolen\u00e9 s\u00fa\u010dasn\u00e9 pravidl\u00e1 sa Cava, a zak\u00e1za\u0165 ich pr\u00e1vne problematick\u00e9.&#8220; Tak pre\u010do nie \u00eds\u0165 dopredu a vytvori\u0165 nov\u00fd ROBI\u0164 s nov\u00fdmi pravidlami? &#8222;Potom si, \u017ee trieda Kava s\u00e1m sa stal riadnym, druhorad\u00fa v\u00edno. A \u017ee je to v poriadku.&#8220;\n<\/p>\n<p>\nHovoril som s t\u00fdch nov\u00fdch pravidiel bude ma\u0165 vplyv na v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inu \u2013 s v\u00fdrobcovia sa sna\u017eia, aby cava najvy\u0161\u0161ej kvality.\n<\/p>\n<p>\n&#8222;Podnet celkovo je dobr\u00e9, hovor\u00ed T\u00f3n Recaredo Mata. Ale osobne potrebujem trochu viac. Som ve\u013emi ambici\u00f3zny a ja by som ako samostatn\u00e9 pomenovanie pre \u0161umiv\u00e9 v\u00edno, konkr\u00e9tne z n\u00e1\u0161ho regi\u00f3nu. Ale ch\u00e1pem, \u017ee je \u0165a\u017ek\u00e1 ot\u00e1zka, preto\u017ee cava je vyroben\u00fd a 1.000 km od n\u00e1s. Inak, s\u00fahlas\u00edm s nimi. Iba Rada by lep\u0161ie pracova\u0165 na definovanie toho, \u010do oni ch\u00e1pu slovo paraje&#8220;.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nDu\u017eina Gramona (Gramona v\u00fdrobcu) podporuje za\u010dlenenie non-miestne odrody do zoznamu povolen\u00fdch polo\u017eiek. &#8222;Som 5 rokov \u0161tudoval v Burgundsku a \u00faplne presved\u010den\u00fd, \u017ee \u0161umiv\u00e9 v\u00edna, tieto franc\u00fazske odrody m\u00f4\u017eu by\u0165 vynikaj\u00face. Z miestnych nich r\u00f4zne je, \u017ee nie v\u017edy m\u00f4\u017eu poskytn\u00fa\u0165 dobr\u00e9 v\u00fdsledky. Tento rok sme sa boli d\u00fafaj\u00fa, \u017ee oznamujeme, 100% Chardonnay pre Paraje, ale ch\u00e1pem, \u017ee nebudete m\u00f4c\u0165 k tomu, \u017ee: kvalita by by\u0165 dostato\u010dne vysok\u00e1,&#8220;.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nCodorn\u00edu, ktor\u00e1 vlastn\u00ed obrovsk\u00e9 plochy vin\u00edc (3500 ha), m\u00f4\u017ee sa stal v\u00e1\u017enym hr\u00e1\u010dom v kateg\u00f3rii Cava de Paraje. Aj tu s\u00fa akt\u00edvne podporuje Chardonnay a Pinot Noir. A tie\u017e lobovali \u2013 ne\u00faspe\u0161ne \u2013 bar minim\u00e1lna \u00farove\u0148 prirodzenej kyslosti 7.5 g \/ L.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nDej nastavenia bude k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e9. A schv\u00e1len\u00e1 bud\u00fa, zrejme, na ve\u013emi \u0165a\u017ek\u00e9 sch\u00e9my. V\u00fdrobcovia bud\u00fa povinn\u00e9 &#8222;br\u00e1ni\u0165&#8220; ich oblastiach pred v\u00fdberov\u00e1 komisia, pozost\u00e1vaj\u00faca z \u0161panielskych vin\u00e1rskych odborn\u00edkov a novin\u00e1rov, ako \u00fastna sk\u00fa\u0161ka na Doktorandsk\u00e9 \u0161t\u00fadium.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nAle je zrejm\u00e9, \u017ee v tejto f\u00e1ze e\u0161te k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00fdch hr\u00e1\u010dov sa l\u00ed\u0161ia v ich ch\u00e1panie toho, \u010do je potrebn\u00e9 paraje.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nTur\u00f3 d &#8218; Mota od v\u00fdrobcu Recaredo prijat\u00e9 Pedro Boneta (ved\u00faci Riadiaci Rady pre cava) ako model pre navrhovan\u00e9ho syst\u00e9mu. Toto je dej menej ako jeden hekt\u00e1r. Spolo\u010dnos\u0165 m\u00e1 nieko\u013eko samostatn\u00fdch mal\u00fdch oblast\u00ed, ktor\u00e9 m\u00e1 v \u00famysle predlo\u017ei\u0165 na schv\u00e1lenie postupu. Je to klasick\u00fd model \u2013 katal\u00e1nsky ekvivalent, povedzme, Burgundsko &#8222;kl\u00edmu&#8220; alebo \u0161ampansk\u00e9 Clos du Mesnil.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nGramona \u2013 naopak, o\u010dak\u00e1va, \u017ee dostane ozna\u010denie Paraje so slovami &#8218;de Origen Gramona&#8216; pre v\u0161etky v\u00edna, ktor\u00e9 rodiny predlo\u017ei\u0165 na schv\u00e1lenie (celkom 30 ha). A je to ak\u00fdsi syst\u00e9m Bordeaux grand vin, len s menej vin\u00edc.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nMali by ste tie\u017e pozna\u0165, \u017ee Paraje \u2013 nie najlep\u0161ie \u0161panielske slovo pre cudzincov. &#8222;J&#8220;, na rozdiel od o\u010dak\u00e1vania v\u00e4\u010d\u0161iny, vyslovuje sa ako rusk\u00fd &#8222;X&#8220;. C &#8222;Pago&#8220; tak\u00e9to probl\u00e9my by nemali nasta\u0165.\n<\/p>\n<p>\nAv\u0161ak, chyba je v\u017edy deje. A m\u00f4j n\u00e1zor je, \u017ee je st\u00e1le najlep\u0161ou spr\u00e1vou pre Cava v ned\u00e1vnej hist\u00f3rii. U\u017e d\u00e1vno iniciat\u00edva, ktor\u00e1 sa otv\u00e1ra pre v\u00fdrobcov potenci\u00e1l sprostredkova\u0165 spotrebite\u013eom pojem vynikaj\u00face \u0161umiv\u00fdch v\u00edn s v\u0161etky zlo\u017eitos\u0165, \u010distoty a rozli\u0161ovaciu &#8222;mineralita&#8220; pre to, \u010do je schopn\u00e9.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>St\u013apiky pre \u010dasopisu Decanter, Andrew Jeffords n\u00e1zvom pre Katal\u00e1nsku diskutova\u0165 inov\u00e1cie v \u0161panielske v\u00edna kateg\u00f3ria klasifik\u00e1cie Paraje de Cava (cava de Paraje) Tu&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[45],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8244","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-suvisiace-informacie"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8244","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8244"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8244\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8244"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8244"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8244"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}