{"id":7848,"date":"2020-01-14T15:16:18","date_gmt":"2020-01-14T12:16:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/se-poate-totusi-lambrusco\/"},"modified":"2020-01-14T15:16:18","modified_gmt":"2020-01-14T12:16:18","slug":"se-poate-totusi-lambrusco","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/se-poate-totusi-lambrusco\/","title":{"rendered":"Se poate, totu\u0219i, Lambrusco?"},"content":{"rendered":"

\n Mama mea cum de-atunci mi-a trimis de ziua de nastere felicitare cu inscrip\u021bia: „\u00cenainte de a g\u0103si un prin\u021b, trebuie s\u0103 \u043f\u0435\u0440\u0435\u0446\u0435\u043b\u043e\u0432\u0430\u0442\u044c o gr\u0103mad\u0103 de broa\u0219te”. Ei bine, dragi cititori, tocmai am terminat saruta broa\u0219te \u00een numele dumneavoastr\u0103. Din fericire, prin\u021bul mi-au reu\u0219it s\u0103 g\u0103seasc\u0103.
\n\u0218i nici m\u0103car unul.\n <\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nDomni \u00een aceast\u0103 istorie ac\u021bioneaz\u0103 reale, adev\u0103rate modele de Lambrusco. Iar \u00een calitate de broa\u0219te \u2013 alte, desene \u0219i modele industriale, produse \u00een astfel de scar\u0103 larg\u0103, care nici m\u0103car nu a visat. Nu, acest lucru este destul de \u0441\u043d\u043e\u0441\u043d\u044b\u0435 vinurile cu aciditate bun\u0103, u\u0219oar\u0103 \u0442\u0430\u043d\u0438\u043d\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c\u044e \u0219i destul de spum\u0103, unele chiar pot fi numite bune \u2013 dar nu exact restante. <\/p>\n

\nIat\u0103 \u0219i primele restante. Anume ei au atras de mine \u00een \u042d\u043c\u0438\u043b\u0438\u044e-\u0420\u043e\u043c\u0430\u043d\u044c\u044e lor arome de cire\u0219e s\u0103lbatice \u0219i ierburi s\u0103lbatice. \u00cen acest Lambrusco exist\u0103 ceva \u043d\u0435\u043e\u0431\u0443\u0437\u0434\u0430\u043d\u043d\u043e\u0435, ceva care face s\u0103 se \u00eentoarc\u0103 la el din nou \u0219i din nou. Probabil, faptul c\u0103 modul de produc\u021bie poate fi imprevizibil. \u0218i poate, de asemenea, c\u0103 produc\u021bia de vinuri de la cele mai bune probe \u2013 la niveluri rezonabile.\n <\/p>\n

\n\u00cen general, produc\u021bia de produse pentru Lambrusco ajunge colosal de valori: p\u00e2n\u0103 la 140 de hectolitri la hectar (a se compara: maxim\u0103 admis\u0103 de ie\u0219ire de baz\u0103 pentru vinuri de Bordeaux \u2013 55 secha). „Tu ba\u021bi joc de mine?” am \u00eentrebat \u2013 o eu de un manager de export la nivel local co-op. „Desigur, r\u0103spunse el, absolut serios, \u2013 s\u0103 de\u021bin\u0103 un astfel de nivel sc\u0103zut nu este \u00eentotdeauna u\u0219or”. Puternic, ia\u0219i, vi\u021b\u0103 de vie, plantate pe c\u00e2mpie \u00een sol fertil, al\u0103turi de \u0433\u0440\u0443\u0448\u0435\u0432\u044b\u043c\u0438 de copaci \u0219i de orz, de multe ori produc mult mai mult: de la 200, \u0219i toate de 300 hectolitri la hectar.\n <\/p>\n

\nPrimite de la ei vin apoi fac \u0438\u0433\u0440\u0438\u0441\u0442\u044b\u043c\u0438 prin metoda Charmat, \u00eentrerupe fermenta\u021bia, c\u00e2nd \u00een ei mai mult nivelul de zah\u0103r pentru a echilibra ridicat de aciditate \u0219i tart\u0103 tanini. Uneori folosesc \u0219i metoda clasic\u0103 (Metodo Classico) \u2013 de asemenea, cunoscut sub numele de „tradi\u021bional” sau „\u0448\u0430\u043c\u043f\u0430\u043d\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0439 metoda” \u2013 apoi, vinul este mai moale, „buna”, mai elegant.\n <\/p>\n

\nDar cel mai mult ne intereseaz\u0103 Metodo Ancestrale \u2013 a\u0219a-numita „metod\u0103 a str\u0103mo\u0219ilor”. Asta \u00een cazul \u00een care exist\u0103 loc de surprize.\n<\/p>\n

Vinul \u00eencepe s\u0103 \u0441\u0431\u0440\u0430\u0436\u0438\u0432\u0430\u0442\u044c \u00een cuve \u2013 aproximativ p\u00e2n\u0103 la nivelul de 10-11% poten\u021bial de alcool, dup\u0103 care se toarn\u0103 \u00een sticle, \u00een cazul \u00een care acesta \u0434\u043e\u0431\u0440\u0430\u0436\u0438\u0432\u0430\u0435\u0442 \u00eenc\u0103 1-2%, iar rezidual zah\u0103r ob\u021binut la nivelul de aproximativ 8 gl (sau mai mult, dac\u0103 vinificator \u00eentrerupe fermenta\u021bia r\u0103cire). Dup\u0103 o poate urma \u0440\u0435\u043c\u044e\u0430\u0436 \u0219i \u0434\u0435\u0433\u043e\u0440\u0436\u0430\u0436, dar nu neap\u0103rat: unii prefer\u0103 s\u0103 vin cu „\u0442\u0443\u043c\u0430\u043d\u0447\u0438\u043a\u043e\u043c”. Dac\u0103 \u00eenainte de \u00eembuteliere se agit\u0103 sticla, nu ultima \u0434\u0435\u0433\u043e\u0440\u0436\u0430\u0436, atunci gustul va diferi semnificativ: mai pu\u021bin \u0444\u0440\u0443\u043a\u0442\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0441\u0442\u0438 \u0219i mai mult „\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044c\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u0438”, \u00een compara\u021bie cu vin, \u00een care a dat \u043e\u0442\u0441\u0442\u043e\u044f\u0442\u0441\u044f un proiect superficial \u00eenainte de \u00eembuteliere.\n <\/p>\n

\nVittorio Graziano<\/b> spune c\u0103 o lung\u0103 perioad\u0103 de timp, el a r\u0103mas singurul care a f\u0103cut Lambrusco la o astfel de metoda. Acum l-au urmat altele, inclusiv mari companii de una-dou\u0103 denumiri Lambrusco Metodo Ancestrale, de\u0219i produc\u021bia de vinuri de la „fra\u021bii mai mari” este \u00eenc\u0103 mult superioar\u0103 fa\u021b\u0103 de indicatorul s\u0103u de 46 de secha\n <\/p>\n

\nEu nu vreau insulta meritele bune Lambrusco prin metoda Charmat \u2013 unele dintre ele sunt foarte bune, si nu am \u043f\u043e\u0440\u0443\u0447\u0443\u0441\u044c c\u0103 \u043e\u0442\u043b\u0438\u0447\u0443 lor orbe\u0219te de „\u043a\u0440\u0430\u0444\u0442\u043e\u0432\u044b\u0445”. Linia de jos este c\u0103 exist\u0103 un nivel diferit de autenticitate Lambrusco, \u0219i \u00een condi\u021biile lipsei de informa\u021bii suficiente pe etichete, pe care ar fi putut s\u0103 se aplece \u00een c\u0103utare de cele mai bune vinuri, am decis s\u0103 \u00eenceap\u0103 cu extreme de artizanat \u0219i pentru a muta \u00eenapoi la normal. Dar la normal, eu a\u0219a \u0219i nu a revenit. Iat\u0103 c\u00e2teva note \u00een urma.\n <\/p>\n

Vine boom-ul de Lambrusco?<\/h2>\n

\nPotrivit lui Vittorio Graziano, la sf\u00e2r\u0219itul 1960\u0445 \u2013 1970\u0445, pe podgoriile s-a r\u0103sp\u00e2ndit putregai. P\u00e2n\u0103 la acel moment densitatea de plantare a fost semnificativ mai mare: p\u00e2n\u0103 la 10.000 de vi\u021b\u0103 de vie pe hectar. Acum este undeva la 3000 sau 2000, dar de atunci \u0219i de mai pu\u021bin de o mie.\n<\/p>\n

\nCred Lambrusco ast\u0103zi este pe pragul de noi frontiere. Modest ini\u021biative de relansare autentice de vinuri dezvolta \u00een serios mi\u0219carea, \u00een 10 ani vor ap\u0103rea speciale de asocia\u021bia produc\u0103torilor, poate chiar special\u0103 de sticl\u0103 \u2013 \u0219i vom vedea na\u0219terea cultului. \u0218i pre\u021buri mai mari.<\/p>\n

\nO variant\u0103 cu dealuri \u2013 Lambrusco \u0413\u0440\u0430\u0441\u043f\u0430\u0440\u043e\u0441\u0441\u0430 (Lambrusco Grasparossa) \u2013 este un vin negru ca smoala-de culoare ro\u0219ie, cu purpurea spum\u0103 \u0219i vizibile taninuri.\n<\/p>\n

Lambrusco \u0421\u043e\u0440\u0431\u0430\u0440\u0430 (Lambrusco Sorbara) \u2013 de c\u00eempie reprezentant, cu o arom\u0103 de c\u0103p\u0219uni de culoare \u0219i un buchet de flori, mai pu\u021bin insistent, dar cu o caracteristic\u0103 pentru toate Lambrusco aciditate.\n<\/p>\n

\n\u00cen total sunt 9 tipuri diferite de struguri de Lambrusco, inclusiv \u0421\u0430\u043b\u0430\u043c\u0438\u043d\u043e (Salamino), \u041c\u0430\u044d\u0441\u0442\u0440\u0438 (Maestri) \u0219i \u041c\u0430\u0440\u0430\u043d\u0438 (Marani). \u0218i, de asemenea, nu mai pu\u021bin de 5 diferite DOC\u043e\u0432 : Sorbara, Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Salamino di Santa Croce, Modena Rosato \u0219i Modena Rosso.\n<\/p>\n

(A se vedea. tipuri de Lambrusco)<\/p>\n

\nToate acestea ne vorbe\u0219te despre faptul c\u0103 Lambrusco-ne s\u0103 bea \u0219i s\u0103 bea… \u0218i poate f\u0103r\u0103. Sau ca aperitiv. Mai Ales Lambrusco Sorbara. \u0218i sigur Grasparossa se poate aplica \u0219i la principalul fel de m\u00e2ncare. Bun Lambrusco locale de a m\u00e2nca \u2013 este un c\u00e2ntec.\n<\/p>\n

\n\u00cen spa\u021bii uscate versiunile nivelul de zah\u0103r rezidual undeva 15 gl, dar de cele mai bune modele pe gustul va fi destul de uscat (iar aciditatea trebuie s\u0103 fie ceva pentru a echilibra).\n<\/p>\n

\nDemiseci, vinuri au proeminent dulceata de gust. Ei bine, \u0219i amabile \u2013 sincer dulci.\n<\/p>\n

\nPersonal, mi \u2013 \u0441\u0442\u043e\u0440\u043e\u043d\u043d\u0438\u0446\u0430 uscat. Dar \u0219i de \u0441\u043b\u0430\u0434\u0435\u043d\u044c\u043a\u043e\u043c\u0443, uneori, nu departe…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Mama mea cum de-atunci mi-a trimis de ziua de nastere felicitare cu inscrip\u021bia: „\u00cenainte de a g\u0103si un prin\u021b, trebuie s\u0103 \u043f\u0435\u0440\u0435\u0446\u0435\u043b\u043e\u0432\u0430\u0442\u044c o…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[43],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7848","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-informatii-conexe"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7848","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7848"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7848\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7848"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7848"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7848"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}