{"id":7775,"date":"2020-01-14T14:43:46","date_gmt":"2020-01-14T11:43:46","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/rioja\/"},"modified":"2020-01-14T14:43:46","modified_gmt":"2020-01-14T11:43:46","slug":"rioja","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/rioja\/","title":{"rendered":"Rioja"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>\n

\nIubitorii de vin spaniol Rioja este capabil de a oferi totul, de la simple, nu l-au cunoscut pe duba de vinuri tradi\u021bionale, \u00eenvechit \u00een sua stejar tempranillo, de la modern la mod\u0103 \u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u0434\u043e\u0432 p\u00e2n\u0103 orientat\u0103 spre maxim „\u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c” de probe.\n<\/p>\n

\n\u00cen acest articol, Expertul Vin Sarah Jane Evans (Sarah Jane Evans, MW) exploreaz\u0103 diferite stiluri de Rioja.\n<\/p>\n

Povestea noastr\u0103 a \u00eenceput \u00een 1980\u043c : p\u00e2n\u0103 la aceast\u0103 or\u0103 nu a existat oficial \u00eemp\u0103r\u021birea Rioja pe vinului „\u043a\u0440\u0438\u0430\u043d\u0441\u0430” (crianza), „\u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435\u0440\u0432\u0430” (reserva) \u0219i „gran \u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435\u0440\u0432\u0430” (gran reserva). Pe etichete \u00eenainte de 1980, pur \u0219i simplu, a pus \u00een anul de recolt\u0103. \u00cen acest caz \u00eentr-o sticl\u0103 ar putea fi orice \u2013 de la stejar stil „grand \u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435\u0440\u0432\u044b” la \u043a\u0430\u0440\u0431\u043e\u043d\u0438\u0447\u0435\u0441\u043a\u043e\u0439 macerate \u00een stil Beaujolais Nouveau.\n<\/p>\n

\nAu trecut 20 de ani \u2013 s-a dus la un nou val modern de Rioja. Aceste vinuri, spre deosebire de tradi\u021bionale, nu a dat nici o garan\u021bie de v\u00e2rst\u0103.\n<\/p>\n

\nCu 15 ani \u00eenainte \u2013 \u0219i, iat\u0103, \u00een centrul aten\u021biei de soiul de struguri \u0219i de terroir.\n<\/p>\n

\nPentru o pereche de zeci de ani simple baz\u0103 de vinifica\u021bie Rioja au dovedit a fi neclare. Pe de alt\u0103 parte, 35 de ani mai t\u00e2rziu imagine din nou, \u00eencepe s\u0103 arate ca.\n<\/p>\n

Manual Rioja \u00eempotriva moderne<\/h2>\n

\n\u00cen modul cel mai tradi\u021bional Rioja vechi de \u0219coal\u0103 \u2013 acest lucru se observ\u0103, maturat in stejar american vin preponderent din soiul tempranillo, nu foarte dens, cu un con\u021binut moderat de alcool \u0219i caracteristic un buchet de v\u00e2rst\u0103 \u2013 este foarte armonios \u0219i elegant.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\n\u00cen \u0431\u043e\u0434\u0435\u0433\u0430\u0445 Rioja este \u00eenc\u0103 p\u0103strat o mul\u021bime de sticle de acest vin, iar spaniole restaurante cu propriile ma\u0219ina proprie v\u00e2nd \u00eenc\u0103 le este destul de rezonabile.\n<\/p>\n

\nAceste vinuri nu frecvente, oaspe\u021bii interna\u021bionale de licita\u021bii. Dar interesul pentru el este \u00een continu\u0103 cre\u0219tere. \u0218i ce ar fi de actuale ast\u0103zi Rioja peste 50 de ani?\n<\/p>\n

\nAceste vinuri s-au schimbat. Chiar \u0219i cele mai adep\u021bii clasici acord\u0103 mai mult\u0103 aten\u021bie \u0219i vi\u021b\u0103 de vie, \u0219i vinicole. Multe vinuri tradi\u021bionale deja poart\u0103 amprenta modernit\u0103\u021bii.\n<\/p>\n

\nCu adev\u0103rat o tr\u0103s\u0103tur\u0103 distinctiv\u0103 a Rioja un nou val a devenit o culoare intens\u0103 \u0219i super-concentrat de caracterul acestor vinuri, prin care au apelat la fani printre iubitorii de saturate de fructe ro\u0219ii.\n<\/p>\n

\nAcest vin a fost rezultatul de concentr\u00e2ndu-se pe vi\u021b\u0103 de vie, \u2013 mai ales \u00een planul de cercetare clone (de genul celor care desf\u0103\u0219oar\u0103 Roda, de exemplu), sc\u0103derea randamentului, fermentare individuale \u00een loturi mici \u0219i expunere \u00een francez\u0103 lemn de stejar.\n<\/p>\n

\nDe multe ori, acestea au fost de vin din 100% tempranillo. Le-au produs pe pia\u021b\u0103 dup\u0103 nu at\u00e2t de mult timp de maturare \u00een butoaie\u00eembuteliat\u0103. \u00cen afar\u0103 de pur stilistice efecte, este, f\u0103r\u0103 \u00eendoial\u0103, mult mai interesant vinificator din punct de vedere comercial, deoarece accelereaz\u0103 revenirea de ata\u0219amente.\n<\/p>\n

Cur\u0103\u021benia din total<\/h3>\n

Slav\u0103 lui dumnezeu, ori de cerneal\u0103, \u0441\u043b\u0430\u0449\u0430\u0432\u044b\u0445 \u0219i aglomerate din lemn de stejar \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445 ca tocmai s-au \u00eencheiat. Ast\u0103zi, regiunea ofer\u0103 \u0431\u043b\u0438\u0441\u0442\u0430\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044c\u043d\u0443\u044e paleta de op\u021biuni. De\u0219i exist\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103 loc pentru cercetare, ca \u0219i \u00een orice regiune viticol\u0103 acest nivel.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nS\u0103 lu\u0103m, de stejar: produc\u0103torii de vinuri „gran \u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435\u0440\u0432\u0430” folosesc un amestec de francez\u0103 \u0219i american\u0103 de stejar, inclusiv cei care mai recent, „a\u0219ezat” numai pe noi butoaie franceze. \u041d\u0435\u0443\u0435\u043c\u043d\u043e\u0435 utilizarea de stejar cedeaz\u0103 treptat producere mai \u0441\u043b\u0430\u0436\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044b\u0445 \u0219i mai complexe vinuri.\n<\/p>\n

\n\u00cen ceea ce prive\u0219te soiurile de struguri, atunci foarte mul\u021bi moderne vinificatorii fac curat tempranillo. Personal, eu prefer parasolarului. Simpla utilizare a unui soi nu este de avantaje, \u00een afar\u0103 de claritate etichete.\n<\/p>\n

\n\u041c\u0430\u0441\u0443\u044d\u043b\u043e (\u043a\u0430\u0440\u0438\u043d\u044c\u044f\u043d), \u0433\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u0447\u0430 \u0219i \u0433\u0440\u0430\u0441\u0438\u0430\u043d\u043e a fost mult timp joace un mic, dar un rol important. Ca \u0219i cabernet sauvignon, care a ap\u0103rut \u00een \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0435 cu Marques de Riscal, \u00een 1862. \u00cen ultimii ani a existat o tendin\u021b\u0103 de utilizare a acestor „tineri” de felul \u00een solo de performan\u021b\u0103. \u0413\u0440\u0430\u0441\u0438\u0430\u043d\u043e de Contino poate fi numit\u0103 cel mai bun caz, mai ales av\u00e2nd \u00een vedere dificultatea de a lucra cu acest soi.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\n\u0413\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u0447\u0443 din mai calde p\u0103r\u021bi Rioja o lung\u0103 perioad\u0103 de timp folosit \u00een \u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u0434\u0430\u0445 vinificatorii mai rece parte \u2013 Rioja Alta. Acum \u0433\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u0447\u0438 a ap\u0103rut un puternic sus\u021bin\u0103tor \u00een persoana Alvaro \u041f\u0430\u043b\u0430\u0441\u0438\u043e\u0441\u0430 (Alvaro Palacios, creatorul de vinuri „L ‘ Ermita”), care lucreaz\u0103 la restabilirea reputa\u021biei acestui soi \u00een partea de est a Rioja \u2013 \u00een Alfaro (Rioja Baja). Pute\u021bi c\u0103uta sa vin Valmira \u2013 din \u0433\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u0447\u0438 cu vechi de vi\u021b\u0103 de vie \u2013 „foarte burgundia, foarte aromat”.\n<\/p>\n

\nDe la \u00eencep\u0103tori, la viile apar soiuri, cum ar fi \u043c\u0430\u0442\u0443\u0440\u0430\u043d\u0430 \u0442\u0438\u043d\u0442\u0430 (Maturana Tinta, ro\u0219u \u043c\u0430\u0442\u0443\u0440\u0430\u043d\u0430), care plaseaz\u0103 rosie vina o bun\u0103 aciditate; \u0219i tempranillo blanco (Tempranillo Blanco, alb tempranillo) \u2013 muta\u021bie genetic\u0103 tempranillo, \u043e\u0431\u0435\u0449\u0430\u044e\u0449\u0430\u044f \u043f\u043e\u043b\u043d\u043e\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044b\u0435 vinurile albe, nu lipsite de prospe\u021bime. <\/p>\n

Dar au \u00eenc\u0103 nevoie de timp pentru a forma \u0219i de a \u00eencepe pentru a da un fel de vizibil recolta.\n<\/p>\n

\u00cen c\u0103utare de terroir<\/h3>\n

\u00cen principiu, \u00een trend \u00een ultima perioad\u0103 nu este nimic nou. Aceast\u0103 cre\u0219tere o nou\u0103 genera\u021bie de produc\u0103tori, care doresc cel mai bun de exprimare a caracterului lor de vi\u021b\u0103 de vie. Tunderea \u0433\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0435, vi\u021b\u0103 de vie vechi, mai noi de stejar \u2013 aici sunt tipice pentru stilul lor de elemente.\n<\/p>\n

\nDificultatea este c\u0103 Rioja \u2013 foarte geologic neuniforma regiunea situat\u0103 \u00eentre diferite lan\u021buri montane, de pe ambele maluri ale r\u00e2ului Ebro. \u00cen ea exist\u0103 \u0219i \u0438\u0437\u0432\u0435\u0441\u0442\u043d\u044f\u043a\u043e\u0432\u043e-lut solului, \u0219i de lut \u0219i glandulare, \u0219i aluviuni.\n<\/p>\n

\nDac\u0103 simplist, atunci Rioja Alta<\/strong> (de Rioja Alta), situat mai sus de restul, \u00een occident, de multe ori d\u0103 mai mult de vinuri lini\u0219tite, \u00een acest caz, cu luminoas\u0103 \u0444\u0440\u0443\u043a\u0442\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c\u044e. La nord de r\u00e2ul Ebro \u2013 Rioja Alavesa<\/strong> (Rioja Alavesa) \u2013 bastion al soiului Tempranillo: mai \u043f\u043e\u043b\u043d\u043e\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044b\u0435, mai proaspete de vin.\n<\/p>\n

\nRioja Baja<\/strong> (Rioja Baja) \u2013 la est \u2013 mai cald, mai jos, uscat (irigarea rezolvata aici), mai pronun\u021bat\u0103 climat mediteranean: aici sunt cele mai bogate vin cu cel mai mare con\u021binut de alcool.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nUnii mari produc\u0103tori prefer\u0103 s\u0103 se amestec\u0103 vinuri din podgorii diferite, al\u021bii \u00eencearc\u0103 s\u0103-\u0219i exprime lor individuale \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u044b (printre ei, Benjamin Romeo, David Sampedro Gil, Olivier Riviere, Abel Mendoza \u0219i Telmo Rodriguez).\n<\/p>\n

\nDac\u0103 \u0219terge\u021bi cele dou\u0103 extreme \u2013 adic\u0103 cele mai \u043a\u043e\u043f\u0435\u0435\u0447\u043d\u044b\u0435 masive de branduri \u0219i absurd preten\u021bios sticle cu \u0437\u0430\u0434\u0443\u0448\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044b\u043c stejarul tempranillo \u00een mijlocul va r\u0103m\u00e2ne o gam\u0103 larg\u0103 \u0219i variat\u0103 gam\u0103, care este \u00een valoare de a explora. Alege\u021bi sine ceva, se toarn\u0103 un pahar \u0219i g\u00e2ndi\u021bi-v\u0103 c\u0103 orice tradi\u021bie, cum se spune, a \u00eenceput ca o inova\u021bie. Pentru Rioja este sincer, ca niciodat\u0103. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Iubitorii de vin spaniol Rioja este capabil de a oferi totul, de la simple, nu l-au cunoscut pe duba de vinuri tradi\u021bionale, \u00eenvechit…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[43],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7775","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-informatii-conexe"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7775","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7775"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7775\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7775"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7775"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7775"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}