{"id":6270,"date":"2020-01-12T23:58:34","date_gmt":"2020-01-12T20:58:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/brunello-di-montalcino\/"},"modified":"2020-01-12T23:58:34","modified_gmt":"2020-01-12T20:58:34","slug":"brunello-di-montalcino","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/brunello-di-montalcino\/","title":{"rendered":"Brunello di Montalcino"},"content":{"rendered":"

\nVisi brunello n\u0101k no apk\u0101rtnes pils\u0113tas Montalcino, bet nav vienota stila brunello. Un lab\u0101kais veids, k\u0101 saprast tas ir interesants v\u012bns \u2013 izp\u0113t\u012bt stilus atsevi\u0161\u0137u v\u012bna d\u0101rzu.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nV\u012bns Brunello di Montalcino<\/strong> saprotams pat\u0113r\u0113t\u0101jam, jo tas, kas ir izdar\u012bts tikai no vienas v\u012bnogu \u0161\u0137irnes \u2013 sangiovese, vai “brunello”, k\u0101 to d\u0113v\u0113 par \u0161o kalnain\u0101 apgabal\u0101 uz dienvidrietumiem no Tosk\u0101nas.\n<\/p>\n

\nBet aprakst\u012bt tipisku v\u012bns no brunello nav iesp\u0113jams. Galu gal\u0101, aptuveni 30-35% brunello dara no v\u012bnogu v\u0113s\u0101ks gabalu uz zieme\u013ciem no pils\u0113tas, bet 65-70% \u2013 no dienvidiem, kur parasti ir daudz silt\u0101ks. V\u012bnogas no zieme\u013ciem, k\u0101 parasti, dod p\u0101rliecin\u0101ti, gardo, \u0161aj\u0101 gad\u012bjum\u0101, vair\u0101k nek\u0101 b\u0101li v\u012bns. Dienvidu v\u012bnogul\u0101ju \u2013 tas ir v\u012bns ar pies\u0101tin\u0101tu kr\u0101su un atkl\u0101ti \u0444\u0440\u0443\u043a\u0442\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c\u044e, nav nepiem\u012bt gar\u0161vielas.\n<\/p>\n

Sare\u017e\u0123\u012b ar\u012b fakts, ka ra\u017eot\u0101ji var sajaukt v\u012bnogas no ab\u0101m pus\u0113m, lai izl\u012bdzin\u0101tu stils un ieg\u016bt vair\u0101k nek\u0101 vid\u0113jais gar\u0161u.<\/p>\n

Dal\u012bties vai nedal\u012bties Montalcino?<\/h2>\n

\nVisska\u013c\u0101k str\u012bdi Montalcino notiek ap jaut\u0101jumu: vai vajag dal\u012bt re\u0123ions sub-zonas, lai skaidri att\u0113lotu da\u017e\u0101du brunello pat\u0113r\u0113t\u0101jam? Zon\u0113jums, visticam\u0101k, ir pag\u0101jis b\u016btu apmal\u0113m ciemati\u0146iem, kas ietilpst re\u0123ions Montalcino.\n<\/p>\n

\nTraditionalists baid\u0101s, ka v\u012bna maz\u0101k v\u0113rt\u012bgu teritorij\u0101s \u2013 lasi zemu atrodas, ar vair\u0101k \u0433\u043b\u0438\u043d\u0438\u0441\u0442\u044b\u043c\u0438 augsni \u2013 piem\u0113ram, Torrenieri, sa\u0146ems negat\u012bvu no preses, bet p\u0113c tam ar\u012b no tirgus.\n<\/p>\n

\nCitas \u2013 piem\u0113ram, Fran\u010desko \u041c\u0430\u0440\u043e\u043d\u0435 \u0427\u0438\u043d\u0437\u0430\u043d\u043e no Col d ‘ Orcia \u2013 iebilst: “iesp\u0113ja, lai skaidri sadal\u012bt zonas Montalcino \u2013 tas ir nopietns pluss pirc\u0113jam, \u2013 paskatieties uz \u0411\u0443\u0440\u0433\u0443\u043d\u0434\u0438\u044e”.\n<\/p>\n

\nVai kaut uz liel\u0101ko ra\u017eot\u0101ja Montalcino \u2013 Val di Suga. Vi\u0146\u0161 jau \u0431\u0443\u0442\u0438\u043b\u0438\u0440\u0443\u0435\u0442 savus 55 ha brunello k\u0101 tr\u012bs atsevi\u0161\u0137as d\u0101rza: Vigna del Lago atrodas uz zieme\u013caustrumiem no pils\u0113tas, pats ir aptuvens no trim v\u012bnu; vair\u0101k elegants Vigna Spuntali \u2013 16 km uz dienvidrietumiem; un pats vienm\u0113r\u012bgu no trim \u2013 Poggio al Granchio \u2013 par to pa\u0161u 16 km uz dienvid-austrumiem. Visi tr\u012bs \u2013 ir diezgan atpaz\u012bstams brunello, pie tam, \u013coti at\u0161\u0137ir\u012bgu no otra. Tas var b\u016bt arguments par labu tam, ka at\u0161\u0137ir\u012bbas \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u043e\u0432 brunello dr\u012bz\u0101k vieno re\u0123ions, nek\u0101 \u0440\u0430\u0437\u043e\u0431\u0449\u0430\u044e\u0442 to.\n<\/p>\n

\nEs uzskatu, ka dal\u012bjums zon\u0101s vai t\u0101 notiks, jo ir v\u0113lme pievienot brunello v\u012bniem klientu v\u0113rt\u012bbu, t\u0101 teikt, lai izceltu to uz “blue chips”, pozicion\u0113jot re\u0123ionu k\u0101 gastronomijas centra ar balt\u0101m trifel\u0113m, \u043a\u043e\u0441\u0443\u043b\u044f\u043c\u0438, me\u017eac\u016bk\u0101m, ol\u012bve\u013c\u013cu, ar aitas sieru, medu un citiem viet\u0113jiem \u0441\u043f\u0435\u0446\u0438\u0430\u043b\u0438\u0442\u0435\u0442\u0430\u043c\u0438.\n<\/p>\n

\nUn tom\u0113r, visvair\u0101k lo\u0123isks ce\u013c\u0161 zin\u0101\u0161anas \u0161\u0137irnes v\u012bnu Montalcino, k\u0101 man \u0161\u0137iet, ir iepaz\u012bstoties ar brunello atsevi\u0161\u0137u saimniec\u012bbu re\u0123ion\u0101.\n<\/p>\n

\nAptuveni 14% (260-320 ha) brunello t\u0101 vai cit\u0101di \u0431\u0443\u0442\u0438\u043b\u0438\u0440\u0443\u0435\u0442\u0441\u044f nor\u0101dot d\u0101rza: vai nu no ofici\u0101l\u0101 saraksta atsevi\u0161\u0137u v\u012bna d\u0101rzu (vigna<\/b>), vai nu p\u0113c \u0123eogr\u0101fisk\u0101s pieder\u012bbas \u2013 atpaz\u012bstami v\u0113sturisk\u0101 novad\u0101 (toponimo<\/b>). <\/p>\n

Ne tiem, ne citiem nav ties\u012bbu izm\u0113ra ierobe\u017eojumus. Tom\u0113r v\u012bns ar nor\u0101di “vigna” ir j\u0101notiek ar v\u012bna d\u0101rzu no saraksta, kas apstiprin\u0101ts Konsorcijs Ra\u017eot\u0101jiem v\u012bniem Brunello.\n <\/p>\n

Atsevi\u0161\u0137as v\u012bna: k\u0101 viss s\u0101k\u0101s<\/h3>\n

\n Pirmie piem\u0113ram, v\u012bna, par\u0101d\u012bj\u0101s vid\u016b 1970\u0445. Tas bija Montosoli no \u041a\u0430\u043f\u0430\u0440\u0446\u043e (Caparzo) un Vigna La Casa no \u0410\u043b\u044c\u0442\u0435\u0437\u0438\u043d\u043e (Altesino). Abi ar lab\u0101kajiem zemes Montalcino, ar nelielu kalna \u041c\u043e\u043d\u0442\u043e\u0441\u043e\u043b\u0438 (Montosoli) zieme\u013cos Montalcino.\n <\/p>\n

\nTom\u0113r, Caparzo un Altesino nav pasp\u0113ju\u0161i izv\u0113l\u0113ties lab\u0101kos posmus \u041c\u043e\u043d\u0442\u043e\u0441\u043e\u043b\u0438, kas tika velt\u012bti \u0123imenei Nello Baricci uz 1955\u043c. \u0411\u0430\u0440\u0438\u0447\u0447\u0438 \u2013 vien\u012bgais saimniec\u012bba Montalcino ar v\u012bna, piln\u012bb\u0101 atrodas teritorij\u0101 \u041c\u043e\u043d\u0442\u043e\u0441\u043e\u043b\u0438.\n<\/p>\n

\nPie v\u012bnogul\u0101jiem \u0411\u0430\u0440\u0438\u0447\u0447\u0438 (Baricci) ide\u0101la dienvidaustrumu ekspoz\u012bcija un augstums (270\u043c) \u2013 “sv\u0113t\u0101 vieta”, lai brunello, kas tiek ieg\u016bta \u0161eit, ir nobriedis, ziedu, svaigu un lieliski \u043f\u044c\u044e\u0449\u0438\u043c\u0441\u044f. \u0411\u0430\u0440\u0438\u0447\u0447\u0438 aicina savu brunello ‘Colombaio Montosoli’, p\u0113c nosaukuma fermas, \u0434\u043e\u0441\u0442\u0430\u0432\u0448\u0435\u0439\u0441\u044f vi\u0146am reiz kop\u0101 ar v\u012bna. \u0160is v\u012bns ir labs atskaites punkts sal\u012bdzin\u0101\u0161anai \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u043d\u044b\u0445 brunello.\n<\/p>\n

\nCitas iev\u0113rojamas paraugi brunello ar konkr\u0113tu v\u012bna par\u0101d\u012bj\u0101s 1980., ar uzkr\u0101jas \u044d\u043a\u0441\u043f\u0430\u043d\u0441\u0438\u0435\u0439 Montalcino v\u012bni. Starp tiem Vigna del Fiore no Fattoria dei Barbi 1981., un Poggio al Vento no Col d ‘ Orcia, kas ’82\u043c.\n<\/p>\n

\nAbi \u2013 ar silt\u0101ku dienvidu malas Montalcino, bet ar v\u0113s\u0101 gabalu augstum\u0101 vair\u0101k nek\u0101 350\u043c. Tie nav padoties k\u0101rdin\u0101jumam rad\u012bt elegantu \u0437\u0440\u0435\u043b\u043e\u0441\u044c upuri modernajam stilam v\u012bnu no \u043f\u0435\u0440\u0435\u0437\u0440\u0435\u0432\u0448\u0435\u0433\u043e v\u012bnogu, kur\u0161 tendenci uz Montalcino, k\u0101 visur, ir aptuveni no 1990\u0445.\n<\/p>\n

\nJa v\u0113laties izsekot v\u0113sturi “klasisk\u0101s brunello cauri gadiem” \u2013 tas Vigna del Fiore un Poggio al Vento var \u0146emt par etalonu starp v\u012bnu ar konkr\u0113tu v\u012bna d\u0101rziem.\n <\/p>\n

Turpin\u0101jums bums brunello<\/h3>\n

\n P\u0101rliecino\u0161s pieaugums jaunu v\u012bnu brunello ar atsevi\u0161\u0137u v\u012bna d\u0101rzu turpin\u0101j\u0101s ar\u012b buma laik\u0101 1990\u0445. No iev\u0113rojam\u0101kajiem: debija Mastrojanni uz 1993\u043c ar v\u012bnu Schiena d ‘Asino, k\u0101 ar\u012b v\u012bni no brunello ar \u0432\u0435\u0442\u0440\u0435\u043d\u043d\u043e\u0433\u043e plato virs ciemats Castelnuovo del \u0410\u0431\u0430\u0442\u0435 (Castelnuovo dell’ Abate) uz dienvidiem Montalcino.\n <\/p>\n

\nCastelnuovo dell ‘ Abate \u2013 karst\u0101kais sub-zona Montalcino. No vienas puses t\u0101 ir sl\u0113gta no aukstuma austrumu v\u0113jiem, \u043f\u043e\u0442\u0443\u0445\u0448\u0438\u043c vulk\u0101nu \u0410\u043c\u0438\u0430\u0442\u0430, bet no otras izp\u016bstas ar dedz\u012bg\u0101m \u0161autru stipri vidusj\u016bras v\u0113ju.\n <\/p>\n

\nTas noz\u012bm\u0113, ka v\u012bns ir no Castelnuovo var b\u016bt tum\u0161u, pies\u0101tin\u0101tu un neparasti \u0445\u043c\u0435\u043b\u044c\u043d\u044b\u043c, sal\u012bdzin\u0101jum\u0101 ar v\u012bniem no zieme\u013ciem Montalcino.\n <\/p>\n

\nCastelnuovo dell ‘ Abate devusi iev\u0113rojamu ieguld\u012bjumu uzplaukums, jaunu st\u0101d\u012bjumu 1996.-2007.gadu, kad laukums v\u012bna ar brunello ir gandr\u012bz dubultojies. Ra\u017eot\u0101ji brunello no zieme\u013caustrumiem, \u012bpa\u0161i labpr\u0101t \u0440\u0430\u0441\u043a\u0443\u043f\u0430\u043b\u0438 \u0161eit zemi, aizst\u0101jot ar ol\u012bvu audz\u0113m un viet\u0113jiem graudu izkrau\u0161anas v\u012bnogul\u0101jiem. Vi\u0146u m\u0113r\u0137is bija mazin\u0101t savus gr\u016bts-\u0442\u0430\u043d\u0438\u043d\u043d\u044b\u0435 v\u012bna kaut ko vair\u0101k pie\u0146emams, un padar\u012bt to pievilc\u012bg\u0101ku pat\u0113r\u0113t\u0101jam.\n <\/p>\n

\nT\u0101 k\u0101 da\u017ei v\u012bndari aizr\u0101vu\u0161ies ra\u017eo\u0161anas \u043a\u0430\u0440\u0438\u043a\u0430\u0442\u0443\u0440\u043d\u044b\u0445 kopijas 100-balles aug\u013cu “gr\u0101v\u0113jus”, citi centu\u0161ies rad\u012bt l\u012bdzsvaru uz d\u0101rzu un izvair\u012bties no p\u0101rkar\u0161anas ogas, k\u0101 izteic\u0101s vad\u012bt\u0101js Mastrojanni, p\u0101rsvar\u0101 “ar apst\u0101d\u012bjumiem pareiz\u0101 le\u0146\u0137\u012b, lai izvair\u012btos no saules triecieniem”.\n <\/p>\n

\nGabali Schiena d ‘ Asino un Vigna Loreto (ra\u017eot\u0101ja Mastrojanni), Ugolaia (Lisini), Manachiara (Silvio Nardi), Fornace (Le Ragnaie), Franci (Fabio Tass) un Pietranera (Centolani) \u2013 tas viss ir piem\u0113ri pieeju, kur\u0101 “v\u012bns dara, un audz\u0113” <\/p>\n

\nFran\u010desko \u0418\u043b\u043b\u0438 (Francesco Illy) no Podere Le Ripi, pilin\u0101m\u0101 off savu v\u012bna ‘Bonsai’ nosprauda m\u0113r\u0137i realiz\u0113t pa\u0161as biez\u0101s st\u0101d\u012b\u0161anas pasaul\u0113 (62500 v\u012bnogul\u0101jiemha).\n <\/p>\n

\n“Tas uztur ra\u017eu v\u012bnogul\u0101jiem zem\u0101 l\u012bmen\u012b, un liek saknes iet dzi\u013c\u0101k,” \u2013 vi\u0146\u0161 teica. V\u012bnogul\u0101ji ir tik tuvu st\u0101d\u012bt, ka izspiest starp tiem var tikai izstr\u0101d\u0101 v\u0113ders. “Tas ir nepr\u0101ts, \u2013 piekr\u012bt \u0418\u043b\u043b\u0438, \u2013 bet t\u0101 var izvair\u012bties no stresa v\u012bnogul\u0101jiem karstuma apst\u0101k\u013cos”. Pirmie \u0432\u0438\u043d\u0442\u0430\u0436\u0438 ar v\u012bna d\u0101rza Bonsai (Bonsai) \u0418\u043b\u043b\u0438 bija aptur\u0113jis jaun\u0101s ozolkoka muc\u0101s. Bet par laimi, tad nol\u0113mu p\u0101rtraukt \u0161o \u0431\u0435\u0441\u0447\u0438\u043d\u0441\u0442\u0432\u043e un dot iesp\u0113ju atv\u0113rties pl\u0101n\u0101 ogu arom\u0101tiem.\n <\/p>\n

\nV\u012bnu cenas no brunello ar atsevi\u0161\u0137u v\u012bna d\u0101rzu par 10-20% virs parastaj\u0101m brunello.<\/p>\n

Bet maks\u0101t \u0161o balvu ir j\u0113ga, manupr\u0101t, tikai tad, ja saimniec\u012bb\u0101 cen\u0161as atkl\u0101t paz\u012bmes terroir, nevis str\u012bd\u0113ties ar vi\u0146u. K\u0101 piem\u0113ru \u0161\u0101da pieeja var novest Salicutti, Pian dell ‘ Orino un Le Ragnaie \u2013 vieni no m\u012b\u013c\u0101kajiem maniem brunello, jo “saj\u016bta vietas” (paz\u012bme terroir) uz \u0161iem v\u012bniem ir \u013coti izteikti, da\u013c\u0113ji pateicoties biolo\u0123isko un \u0431\u0438\u043e\u0434\u0438\u043d\u0430\u043c\u0438\u0447\u0435\u0441\u043a\u043e\u043c\u0443 pieejai.\n <\/p>\n

\nJ\u016bs varat dom\u0101t, ka es dom\u0101ju, ka zon\u0113jums visp\u0101r ir j\u0113ga tikai tad, ja v\u012bna \u0431\u0438\u043e\u0434\u0438\u043d\u0430\u043c\u0438\u0447\u0435\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0435 vai biolo\u0123isk\u0101s lauksaimniec\u012bbas, \u2013 n\u0113, slikta biolo\u0123isk\u0101 lauksaimniec\u012bba un v\u012bna dar\u012b\u0161anas (kas ir iesp\u0113jams un kas Montalcino, diem\u017e\u0113l), koka tupel\u0113m terroir tikpat viegli, k\u0101 un pielietojums kaudzes \u0137imik\u0101lijas.\n <\/p>\n

\nJo ofici\u0101l\u0101s kartes v\u012bnu atsevi\u0161\u0137u v\u012bna d\u0101rzu nav, lab\u0101kais veids, k\u0101 sal\u012bdzin\u0101t \u0161\u0101du v\u012bnu un atrast cien\u012bgs ir atv\u0113rt pudeles, tai skait\u0101, ar jauniem v\u0101rdiem.\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Visi brunello n\u0101k no apk\u0101rtnes pils\u0113tas Montalcino, bet nav vienota stila brunello. Un lab\u0101kais veids, k\u0101 saprast tas ir interesants v\u012bns \u2013 izp\u0113t\u012bt…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6270","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-saistita-informacija"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6270","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6270"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6270\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6270"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6270"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6270"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}