{"id":6175,"date":"2020-01-12T23:06:47","date_gmt":"2020-01-12T20:06:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/rioja\/"},"modified":"2020-01-12T23:06:47","modified_gmt":"2020-01-12T20:06:47","slug":"rioja","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/rioja\/","title":{"rendered":"Rioja"},"content":{"rendered":"

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\nFani sp\u0101\u0146u v\u012bnu Rioja sp\u0113j pied\u0101v\u0101t visu, s\u0101kot no vienk\u0101r\u0161as, nav prata ozola v\u012bnu l\u012bdz tradicion\u0101lo, iztur\u0113ts amerik\u0101\u0146u ozola tempranillo, no modes m\u016bsdienu \u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u0434\u043e\u0432 l\u012bdz orient\u0113ta uz maksim\u0101lu “\u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c” paraugu.\n<\/p>\n

\n\u0160aj\u0101 rakst\u0101 Meistars V\u012bna Sarah Jane Evans (Sarah Jane Evans MW) p\u0113ta da\u017e\u0101dus stilus \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0438.\n<\/p>\n

M\u016bsu st\u0101sts s\u0101k\u0101s 1980\u043c : l\u012bdz \u0161im nebija ofici\u0101las dalot \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0438 uz v\u012bna “\u043a\u0440\u0438\u0430\u043d\u0441\u0430” (crianza), “\u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435\u0440\u0432\u0430” (reserva) un “gran \u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435\u0440\u0432\u0430” (gran reserva). Uz eti\u0137et\u0113m l\u012bdz 1980. gadiem vienk\u0101r\u0161i iedzina nov\u0101k\u0161anas gads. Ja \u0161aj\u0101 pudel\u0113 var\u0113ja b\u016bt jebkas \u2013 no ozola stila “grand prix \u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435\u0440\u0432\u044b” l\u012bdz \u043a\u0430\u0440\u0431\u043e\u043d\u0438\u0447\u0435\u0441\u043a\u043e\u0439 macer\u0101cijas Beaujolais Nouveau stil\u0101.\n<\/p>\n

\nIr pag\u0101ju\u0161i 20 gadus \u2013 g\u0101ja, jaunais vilnis m\u016bsdienu \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0438. \u0160ie v\u012bni, at\u0161\u0137ir\u012bb\u0101 no tradicion\u0101l\u0101s, nedeva nek\u0101das garantijas vecuma.\n<\/p>\n

\nV\u0113l 15 gadus uz priek\u0161u \u2013 un, l\u016bk, uzman\u012bbas centr\u0101 v\u012bnogu \u0161\u0137irnes un terroir.\n<\/p>\n

\nUz p\u0101ris gadu desmitiem vienk\u0101r\u0161u pamatus v\u012bna \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0438 bija neskaidra. No otras puses, p\u0113c 35 gadiem, att\u0113ls atkal s\u0101k izskat\u012bties.\n<\/p>\n

Tradicion\u0101l\u0101 Rioja pret m\u016bsdienu<\/h2>\n

\nSkat\u0101 da\u013cai, tradicion\u0101l\u0101 Rioja vec\u0101s skolas \u2013 tas ir j\u016btami veci amerik\u0101\u0146u ozola v\u012bnu, liel\u0101koties no \u0161\u0137irnes tempranillo un nav \u013coti biezs, ar m\u0113renu alkohola saturu un rakstur\u012bgo bu\u0137eti vecuma \u2013 \u013coti harmonisks un elegants.\n<\/p>\n

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\nUz \u0431\u043e\u0434\u0435\u0433\u0430\u0445 \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0438 l\u012bdz \u0161im tur daudz pude\u013cu \u0161\u0101da v\u012bna un sp\u0101\u0146u restor\u0101ni ar sav\u0101m \u043f\u043e\u0433\u0440\u0435\u0431\u0430\u043c\u0438 joproj\u0101m p\u0101rdod par diezgan sam\u0113r\u012bg\u0101m cen\u0101m.\n<\/p>\n

\n\u0160ie v\u012bni \u2013 nav bie\u017ei viesi starptautiskajos izsol\u0113s. Ta\u010du interese par tiem tikai pieaug. Bet kas b\u016bs p\u0101rst\u0101v\u0113t ra\u017eota \u0161odien Rioja p\u0113c 50 gadiem?\n<\/p>\n

\n\u0160ie v\u012bni ir main\u012bju\u0161ies. Pat klasikas piekrit\u0113ji piev\u0113r\u0161 \u0161odien vair\u0101k uzman\u012bbas un v\u012bnogul\u0101ju un v\u012bna dar\u012btavu. Daudzi tradicion\u0101lie v\u012bna jau n\u0113s\u0101 nospiedums m\u016bsdien\u0101m.\n<\/p>\n

\nPatiesi paz\u012bme \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0438 jaun\u0101 vi\u013c\u0146a ir k\u013cuvusi par intens\u012bvu kr\u0101su un super koncentr\u0113ts raksturs \u0161iem v\u012bniem, pateicoties kuriem vi\u0146iem pievienoj\u0101s fanu vid\u016b, kas aizraujas ar pies\u0101tin\u0101to sarkano aug\u013cu.\n<\/p>\n

\nV\u012bns bija rezult\u0101ts, lai fokus\u0113tos uz \u043b\u043e\u0437\u0430\u0445, \u2013 jo \u012bpa\u0161i attiec\u012bb\u0101 uz p\u0113tniec\u012bbas klonu (l\u012bdz\u012bgs tiem, ko veic Roda, piem\u0113ram), samazin\u0101t ra\u017eu, ferment\u0101cijas atsevi\u0161\u0137iem nelieliem un ekspon\u0113\u0161anas laika fran\u010du ozola.\n<\/p>\n

\nBie\u017ei vien, tas ir v\u012bns no 100% tempranillo. Vi\u0146u palaida uz tirgu, lai p\u0113c tam nav tik ilgas iztur\u0113\u0161anas muc\u0101spudel\u0113s. Papildus t\u012bri stilistiski efekti, tas ir, bez \u0161aub\u0101m, ir v\u0113l interesanti v\u012bnog\u0101m no komerci\u0101l\u0101 viedok\u013ca, jo pa\u0101trina ieguld\u012bjumu atg\u016b\u0161anu.\n<\/p>\n

T\u012br\u012bba no sare\u017e\u0123\u012bt\u012bbas<\/h3>\n

Paldies dievam, laiki tintes, \u0441\u043b\u0430\u0449\u0430\u0432\u044b\u0445 un p\u0101rslogoti ozola \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445 l\u012bdz\u012bgs bija pag\u0101ju\u0161i. \u0160odien re\u0123ions pied\u0101v\u0101 veiksm\u012bgu palete iesp\u0113jas. Lai gan ir v\u0113l vieta, kur p\u0113tniec\u012bbas, k\u0101 ar\u012b jebk\u0101d\u0101 v\u012bna re\u0123ion\u0101 ir \u0161\u0101da l\u012bme\u0146a.\n<\/p>\n

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\n\u0145emsim kaut vai ozols: ra\u017eot\u0101ji v\u012bnu “grand prix \u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435\u0440\u0432\u0430” izmanto mais\u012bjums fran\u010du un amerik\u0101\u0146u ozola, tostarp tiem, kas v\u0113l nesen “s\u0113\u017e” tikai un vien\u012bgi uz jaunu fran\u010du muc\u0101s. \u041d\u0435\u0443\u0435\u043c\u043d\u043e\u0435 izmanto\u0161ana ozola l\u0113n\u0101m padodas ra\u017eot vair\u0101k saska\u0146otu un sare\u017e\u0123\u012bt\u0101kas v\u012bnu.\n<\/p>\n

\nAttiec\u012bb\u0101 uz da\u017e\u0101d\u0101m v\u012bnogu \u0161\u0137irn\u0113m, tad \u013coti daudzi m\u016bsdienu ra\u017eot\u0101ji dara t\u012bru tempranillo. Person\u012bgi, es grib\u0113tu p\u0101rsega. Pats par sevi, izmantojot vienas \u0161\u0137irnes neuz\u0146emas nek\u0101du priek\u0161roc\u012bbu, iz\u0146emot skaidr\u012bbas eti\u0137etes.\n<\/p>\n

\n\u041c\u0430\u0441\u0443\u044d\u043b\u043e (\u043a\u0430\u0440\u0438\u043d\u044c\u044f\u043d), \u0433\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u0447\u0430 un \u0433\u0440\u0430\u0441\u0438\u0430\u043d\u043e sen jau sp\u0113l\u0113 savu nelielu, bet svar\u012bgu lomu. K\u0101 un cabernet sauvignon, kas \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0435 ar Marques de Riscal 1862. P\u0113d\u0113jos gados iez\u012bm\u0113j\u0101s tendence izmantot \u0161os “junioru” \u0161\u0137irnes \u0441\u043e\u043b\u044c\u043d\u043e\u043c izpild\u012bjum\u0101. \u0413\u0440\u0430\u0441\u0438\u0430\u043d\u043e no Contino var dro\u0161i nosaukt par veiksm\u012bgu gad\u012bjumu, jo \u012bpa\u0161i \u0146emot v\u0113r\u0101 gr\u016bt\u012bbas, str\u0101d\u0101jot ar \u0161o \u0161\u0137irnei.\n<\/p>\n

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\n\u0413\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u0447\u0443 no silt\u0101ks da\u013cas \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0438 ilgu laiku izmantoja \u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u0434\u0430\u0445 v\u012bndari, lai t\u0101s vair\u0101k aukstu da\u013cas \u2013 \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0438 Alta. Tagad \u0433\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u0447\u0438 par\u0101d\u012bj\u0101s varens atbalst\u012bt\u0101ju sejas Alvaro \u041f\u0430\u043b\u0430\u0441\u0438\u043e\u0441\u0430 (Alvaro Palacios, autom\u0101ts v\u012bna “L ‘ Ermita”), kur\u0161 str\u0101d\u0101, lai atjaunotu reput\u0101ciju \u0161\u012bs \u0161\u0137irnes austrumu da\u013c\u0101 \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0438 \u2013 uz \u0410\u043b\u044c\u0444\u0430\u0440\u043e (Rioja Baja). Varat mekl\u0113t to, v\u012bns Valmira \u2013 no \u0433\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u0447\u0438 ar veciem v\u012bnogul\u0101jiem \u2013 “\u013coti burgundijas, \u013coti arom\u0101tisks”.\n<\/p>\n

\nNo jaunpien\u0101c\u0113jiem, v\u012bna d\u0101rzus par\u0101d\u0101s t\u0101das \u0161\u0137irnes k\u0101 \u043c\u0430\u0442\u0443\u0440\u0430\u043d\u0430 \u0442\u0438\u043d\u0442\u0430 (Maturana Tinta, sarkana \u043c\u0430\u0442\u0443\u0440\u0430\u043d\u0430), kur\u0161 piedod sarkanv\u012bna labu sk\u0101bumu; un tempranillo blanco (Tempranillo Blanco, balts tempranillo) \u2013 \u0123en\u0113tisk\u0101 mut\u0101cija, tempranillo, \u043e\u0431\u0435\u0449\u0430\u044e\u0449\u0430\u044f \u043f\u043e\u043b\u043d\u043e\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044b\u0435 balto v\u012bnu, nav at\u0146emtas svaiguma. <\/p>\n

Bet vi\u0146iem v\u0113l ir nepiecie\u0161ams laiks, lai izveidoties un s\u0101kt dot k\u0101du iev\u0113rojamu ra\u017eu.\n<\/p>\n

Mekl\u0113jot terroir<\/h3>\n

Princip\u0101, tendence p\u0113d\u0113j\u0101 laik\u0101 nav nekas jauns. Tas ir pieaugums jaun\u0101s paaudzes ra\u017eot\u0101jiem, kuri v\u0113las lab\u0101ku izteiksmes rakstura saviem v\u012bna d\u0101rziem. Augkop\u012bba \u0433\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0435, veciem v\u012bnogul\u0101jiem, maz\u0101k jaunu ozola \u2013 l\u016bk, kas ir rakstur\u012bgas vi\u0146u stila elementi.\n<\/p>\n

\nGr\u016bt\u012bbas sag\u0101d\u0101 tas, ka Rioja \u2013 ir \u0123eolo\u0123iski \u013coti fragment\u0101ra re\u0123ions, kas atrodas starp da\u017e\u0101d\u0101m kalnu \u0137\u0113d\u0113m, gan no upes puses \u042d\u0431\u0440\u043e. Taj\u0101 ir \u0438\u0437\u0432\u0435\u0441\u0442\u043d\u044f\u043a\u043e\u0432\u043e-m\u0101la augsnes, un, m\u0101la un dzelzs, un \u0430\u043b\u043b\u044e\u0432\u0438\u0439.\n<\/p>\n

\nJa ir p\u0101rsp\u012bl\u0113ti, tad Rioja Alta<\/strong> (Rioja Alta), kas atrodas virs p\u0101r\u0113jo rietumos, bie\u017ei vien dod daudz mier\u012bg\u0101ki v\u012bnu, pie tam ar spilgtu \u0444\u0440\u0443\u043a\u0442\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c\u044e. Uz zieme\u013ciem no upes \u042d\u0431\u0440\u043e \u2013 Rioja \u0410\u043b\u0430\u0432\u0435\u0441\u0430<\/strong> (Rioja Alavesa) \u2013 cietoksnis \u0161\u0137irnes Tempranillo: vair\u0101k \u043f\u043e\u043b\u043d\u043e\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044b\u0435, vair\u0101k nek\u0101 svaigi v\u012bni.\n<\/p>\n

\nRioja Baja<\/strong> (Rioja Baja) \u2013 austrumos \u2013 silt\u0101ks, zem zemes (ap\u016bde\u0146o\u0161anas \u0161eit ir at\u013cauta), ar vair\u0101k izteikts vidusj\u016bras klimats: \u0161eit ir pies\u0101tin\u0101ts v\u012bns ar liel\u0101ko alkohola saturu.\n<\/p>\n

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\nDa\u017ei lielie ra\u017eot\u0101ji dod priek\u0161roku, samaisa v\u012bnu ar da\u017e\u0101d\u0101m v\u012bna, citi cen\u0161as izteikt savu individu\u0101lo \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u044b (starp tiem Benjamin Romeo, David Sampedro Gil, Olivier Riviere, Abel Mendoza, un Telmo Rodriguez).\n<\/p>\n

\nJa no\u0146emtu divas gal\u0113j\u012bbas \u2013 t.i., visvair\u0101k \u043a\u043e\u043f\u0435\u0435\u0447\u043d\u044b\u0435 masu z\u012bmoli un nej\u0113dz\u012bgs sam\u0101kslots pudeles ar \u0437\u0430\u0434\u0443\u0448\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044b\u043c ozola tempranillo \u2013 to vid\u016b saglab\u0101sies pla\u0161a un raiba spektru, ko ir v\u0113rts m\u0101c\u012bties. Izv\u0113laties sev kaut ko, ielej gl\u0101z\u0113 un padom\u0101jiet par to, ka jebkura trad\u012bcija, k\u0101 saka, s\u0101k\u0101s k\u0101 inov\u0101cija. Lai \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0438 tas ir patiesi, k\u0101 nekad. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Fani sp\u0101\u0146u v\u012bnu Rioja sp\u0113j pied\u0101v\u0101t visu, s\u0101kot no vienk\u0101r\u0161as, nav prata ozola v\u012bnu l\u012bdz tradicion\u0101lo, iztur\u0113ts amerik\u0101\u0146u ozola tempranillo, no modes m\u016bsdienu…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6175","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-saistita-informacija"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6175","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6175"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6175\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6175"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6175"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/lv\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6175"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}