{"id":3096,"date":"2020-01-09T12:35:38","date_gmt":"2020-01-09T09:35:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/brunello-di-montalcino\/"},"modified":"2020-01-09T12:35:38","modified_gmt":"2020-01-09T09:35:38","slug":"brunello-di-montalcino","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/brunello-di-montalcino\/","title":{"rendered":"Brunello di Montalcino"},"content":{"rendered":"

\nV\u0161echny brunello poch\u00e1z\u00ed z okol\u00ed m\u011bsta Montalcino, ale nen\u00ed tam \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd jednotn\u00fd styl brunello. A nejlep\u0161\u00ed zp\u016fsob, jak pochopit, je to zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 v\u00edno, zkoumat styly jednotliv\u00fdch vinic.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nV\u00edno Brunello di Montalcino<\/strong> je pochopiteln\u00e9 pro spot\u0159ebitele, proto\u017ee je vyroben pouze z jedn\u00e9 odr\u016fdy \u2013 sangiovese, nebo „brunello“, jak se tomu \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 v t\u00e9to kopcovit\u00e9 oblasti na jihoz\u00e1pad\u011b Tosk\u00e1nska.\n<\/p>\n

\nAle popsat typick\u00e9 v\u00edno z brunello nemo\u017en\u00e9. Proto\u017ee asi 30 a\u017e 35% brunello d\u011blaj\u00ed z hrozn\u016f z chladn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch m\u00edst severn\u011b od m\u011bsta, v t\u00e9 dob\u011b, jak 65-70% \u2013 z ji\u017en\u00ed, kde je obvykle mnohem teplej\u0161\u00ed. Hrozny ze severu, jako obvykle, d\u00e1v\u00e1 jist\u00fd, chutn\u00e9, p\u0159itom v\u00edce ne\u017e bled\u00fd v\u00edno. Ji\u017en\u00ed r\u00e9vy \u2013 je to v\u00edno s intenzivn\u00ed barvou a \u00fapln\u011b \u0444\u0440\u0443\u043a\u0442\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c\u044e, nepostr\u00e1d\u00e1 ko\u0159en\u00ed.\n<\/p>\n

Komplikuje i to, \u017ee v\u00fdrobci mohou kombinovat hrozny z obou stran, aby se sladit styl a z\u00edskat v\u00edce pr\u016fm\u011brn\u00e1 chu\u0165.<\/p>\n

Sd\u00edlet, nebo ne sd\u00edlet Montalcino?<\/h2>\n

\nTy hlasit\u00e9 spory v Montalcino prob\u00edhaj\u00ed kolem ot\u00e1zky: mus\u00edm to rozd\u011blit region na sub-z\u00f3ny, aby se jasn\u011b vymezit jin\u00fd brunello pro spot\u0159ebitele? \u00dazemn\u00ed, s nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed pravd\u011bpodobnost\u00ed \u0161lo by na hranic\u00edch vesnice, p\u0159\u00edchoz\u00ed v oblasti Montalcino.\n<\/p>\n

\nTradicionalist\u00e9 se ob\u00e1vali, \u017ee vinice na m\u00e9n\u011b cenn\u00fdch \u00fazem\u00edch \u2013 \u010dti n\u00edzko polo\u017een\u00e9, s v\u00edce \u0433\u043b\u0438\u043d\u0438\u0441\u0442\u044b\u043c\u0438 p\u016fdu \u2013 jako Torrenieri, \u017ee si film z tisku, a pak se na trhu.\n<\/p>\n

\nOstatn\u00ed \u2013 jako Francesco \u041c\u0430\u0440\u043e\u043d\u0435 \u0427\u0438\u043d\u0437\u0430\u043d\u043e z Col d ‚ Orcia \u2013 nam\u00edtaj\u00ed: „mo\u017enost jasn\u011b rozd\u011blit z\u00f3ny Montalcino \u2013 je to v\u00e1\u017en\u00fd plus pro kupuj\u00edc\u00edho \u2013 pod\u00edvejte se na \u0411\u0443\u0440\u0433\u0443\u043d\u0434\u0438\u044e“.\n<\/p>\n

\nNebo alespo\u0148 na nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edho v\u00fdrobce v Montalcino \u2013 Val di Suga. To u\u017e \u0431\u0443\u0442\u0438\u043b\u0438\u0440\u0443\u0435\u0442 sv\u00e9 55 hektar\u016f brunello jako t\u0159i samostatn\u00e9 vinice Vigna del Lago \u2013 vina\u0159stv\u00ed na severov\u00fdchod\u011b m\u011bsta, nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00ed dov\u00e1d\u011bn\u00ed ze t\u0159\u00ed v\u00edn; v\u00edce elegantn\u00ed Vigna Spuntali \u2013 16 km na jiho-z\u00e1pad; a co nejhlad\u0161\u00ed ze t\u0159\u00ed \u2013 Poggio al Granchio \u2013 ve stejn\u00fdch 16 km na jiho-v\u00fdchod. V\u0161echny t\u0159i \u2013 docela \u0443\u0437\u043d\u0430\u0432\u0430\u0435\u043c\u043e\u0435 brunello, p\u0159i tom se velmi li\u0161\u00ed od sebe navz\u00e1jem. To m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt argumentem ve prosp\u011bch toho, \u017ee rozd\u00edly \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u043e\u0432 brunello sp\u00ed\u0161e spojuj\u00ed region, ne\u017e \u0440\u0430\u0437\u043e\u0431\u0449\u0430\u044e\u0442 jeho.\n<\/p>\n

\nDomn\u00edv\u00e1m se, \u017ee d\u011blen\u00ed na z\u00f3ny tak \u010di onak se stane, proto\u017ee tam je touha p\u0159idat v\u00edno brunello hodnoty, abych tak \u0159ekl, vyp\u00ed\u0161e ho do „blue chips“, \u043f\u043e\u0437\u0438\u0446\u0438\u043e\u043d\u0438\u0440\u0443\u044f region a jako gastronomick\u00fd centra s b\u00edl\u00fdmi lan\u00fd\u017ei, \u043a\u043e\u0441\u0443\u043b\u044f\u043c\u0438, jak se divok\u00e1 prasata, olivov\u00fdm olejem, ov\u010d\u00edm s\u00fdrem, medem a dal\u0161\u00edmi m\u00edstn\u00edmi \u0441\u043f\u0435\u0446\u0438\u0430\u043b\u0438\u0442\u0435\u0442\u0430\u043c\u0438.\n<\/p>\n

\nA zat\u00edm nejlogi\u010dt\u011bj\u0161\u00ed cestu v pozn\u00e1n\u00ed odr\u016fdy v\u00edna Montalcino, zd\u00e1 se mi, spo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1 v sezn\u00e1men\u00ed s brunello jednotliv\u00fdch dom\u00e1cnost\u00ed v regionu.\n<\/p>\n

\nP\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 14% (260-320 ha) brunello tak \u010di onak \u0431\u0443\u0442\u0438\u043b\u0438\u0440\u0443\u0435\u0442\u0441\u044f s uveden\u00edm vinice: bu\u010f z ofici\u00e1ln\u00edho seznamu jednotliv\u00fdch vinic (vigna<\/b>), nebo podle geografick\u00e9 rasy \u2013 z\u0159eteln\u00e9 historick\u00e9 lokality (toponimo<\/b>). <\/p>\n

Ani pro lidi, ani pro ostatn\u00ed nen\u00ed legislativn\u00ed omezen\u00ed velikosti. Nicm\u00e9n\u011b v\u00edna s ozna\u010den\u00edm „vigna“ by m\u011blo doj\u00edt z vinic ze seznamu, schv\u00e1len\u00e9ho Konsorciem V\u00fdrobc\u016f v\u00edn Brunello.\n <\/p>\n

Jednotliv\u00e9 vinice: jak to v\u0161echno za\u010dalo<\/h3>\n

\n Prvn\u00ed takov\u00e9 v\u00edno se objevily v polovin\u011b roce 1970. To byly Montosoli od \u041a\u0430\u043f\u0430\u0440\u0446\u043e (Caparzo) a Vigna La Casa od \u0410\u043b\u044c\u0442\u0435\u0437\u0438\u043d\u043e (Altesino). Oba \u2013 z nejlep\u0161\u00ed p\u016fdy Montalcino, z mal\u00e9ho kopce, \u041c\u043e\u043d\u0442\u043e\u0441\u043e\u043b\u0438 (Montosoli) na severu Montalcino.\n <\/p>\n

\nNicm\u00e9n\u011b, Caparzo a Altesino nen\u00ed \u010das urvat nejlep\u0161\u00ed pozemky \u041c\u043e\u043d\u0442\u043e\u0441\u043e\u043b\u0438, kter\u00e9 se vzaly rodin\u011b Nello Baricci v 1955\u043c. \u0411\u0430\u0440\u0438\u0447\u0447\u0438 \u2013 jedin\u00fd zem\u011bd\u011blstv\u00ed v Montalcino s vinic\u00ed, cel\u00e1 se nach\u00e1z\u00ed na \u00fazem\u00ed \u041c\u043e\u043d\u0442\u043e\u0441\u043e\u043b\u0438.\n<\/p>\n

\nU r\u00e9vy \u0411\u0430\u0440\u0438\u0447\u0447\u0438 (Baricci) ide\u00e1ln\u00ed jihov\u00fdchodn\u00ed expozice a nadmo\u0159sk\u00e1 v\u00fd\u0161ka (270\u043c) \u2013 „svat\u00e9 m\u00edsto“ pro brunello, kter\u00fd je produkov\u00e1n zde zral\u00fd, kv\u011btinov\u00e9, aromatick\u00e9 a skv\u011ble \u043f\u044c\u044e\u0449\u0438\u043c\u0441\u044f. \u0411\u0430\u0440\u0438\u0447\u0447\u0438 vol\u00e1 sv\u00e9 brunello ‚Colombaio Montosoli‘, podle n\u00e1zvu farmy, \u0434\u043e\u0441\u0442\u0430\u0432\u0448\u0435\u0439\u0441\u044f mu kdysi spolu s vinic\u00ed. Je to v\u00edno \u2013 dobr\u00fd referen\u010dn\u00ed bod pro srovn\u00e1n\u00ed \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u043d\u044b\u0445 brunello.\n<\/p>\n

\nJin\u00e9 pozoruhodn\u00e9 vzorky brunello z konkr\u00e9tn\u00edch vinic se objevily v roce 1980, s nar\u016fstaj\u00edc\u00ed expanze v\u00edna Montalcino. Mezi nimi Vigna del Fiore od Fattoria dei Barbi v roce 1981, a Poggio al Vento od Col d ‚ Orcia v ’82\u043c.\n<\/p>\n

\nOba \u2013 s v\u00edce tepl\u00e9ho ji\u017en\u00edho okraje Montalcino, ale z chladn\u00fdch \u00fasek\u016f na v\u00fd\u0161ce 350 metr\u016f. Nejsou podlehly p\u0159in\u00e9st elegantn\u00ed \u0437\u0440\u0435\u043b\u043e\u0441\u044c ob\u011b\u0165 m\u00f3dn\u00ed styl v\u00edn z \u043f\u0435\u0440\u0435\u0437\u0440\u0435\u0432\u0448\u0435\u0433\u043e hrozn\u016f, se stal trendem v Montalcino, stejn\u011b jako v\u0161ude jinde, asi s 1990\u0445.\n<\/p>\n

\nPokud chcete sledovat historii „klasick\u00e9 brunello p\u0159es rok“ \u2013 to Vigna del Fiore a Poggio al Vento je mo\u017en\u00e9 vz\u00edt za mezn\u00edk mezi v\u00edna z konkr\u00e9tn\u00edch vinic.\n <\/p>\n

Pokra\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed boomu brunello<\/h3>\n

\n Jist\u00fd vzestup nov\u00fdch v\u00edn brunello z jednotliv\u00fdch vinic pokra\u010doval a b\u011bhem boomu 1990\u0445. Z nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch: debut Mastrojanni v 1993\u043c s v\u00ednem Schiena d ‚Asino, ale tak\u00e9 v\u00edna z brunello s \u0432\u0435\u0442\u0440\u0435\u043d\u043d\u043e\u0433\u043e n\u00e1horn\u00ed plo\u0161in\u011b nad vesni\u010dky Castelnuovo del \u0410\u0431\u0430\u0442\u0435 (Castelnuovo dell‘ Abate) na jihu Montalcino.\n <\/p>\n

\nCastelnuovo dell ‚ Abate \u2013 nej\u017ehav\u011bj\u0161\u00ed sub-z\u00f3na Montalcino. Na jedn\u00e9 stran\u011b je uzav\u0159ena od chladn\u00e9 v\u00fdchodn\u00ed v\u011btry n\u011bkter\u00e9 mal\u00e9 \u0161ed\u00e9 zanikl\u00e9 sopkou \u0410\u043c\u0438\u0430\u0442\u0430, a na druh\u00e9 je vh\u00e1n\u011bn hork\u00fd slan\u00e9mu st\u0159edomo\u0159sk\u00fdmi v\u011btry.\n <\/p>\n

\nTo znamen\u00e1, \u017ee v\u00edno je z Castelnuovo m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt v\u00edce temn\u00e9, bohat\u00fd a neobvykle opojn\u00fd, ve srovn\u00e1n\u00ed s v\u00edny ze severu Montalcino.\n <\/p>\n

\nCastelnuovo dell ‚ Abate p\u0159edstavil velk\u00fd p\u0159\u00ednos v rozmachu nov\u00fdch p\u0159ist\u00e1n\u00ed 1996-2007\u0433\u0433, pokud je plocha vinic s brunello t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 zdvojn\u00e1sobil. V\u00fdrobci brunello od severov\u00fdchodu, zejm\u00e9na ochotn\u011b \u0440\u0430\u0441\u043a\u0443\u043f\u0430\u043b\u0438 zde zem\u011b, kter\u00e9 nahrad\u00ed olivov\u00e9 h\u00e1je a m\u00edstn\u00ed p\u0159ist\u00e1n\u00ed \u0437\u043b\u0430\u043a\u043e\u0432\u044b\u0445 na vinn\u00e9 r\u00e9vy. Jejich c\u00edlem bylo zm\u00edrnit jejich t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9-\u0442\u0430\u043d\u0438\u043d\u043d\u044b\u0435 v\u00edna n\u011bco p\u0159ijateln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a u\u010dinit je atraktivn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed pro spot\u0159ebitele.\n <\/p>\n

\nZat\u00edmco n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed vina\u0159i \u00faporn\u011b soust\u0159edily v\u00fdroby \u043a\u0430\u0440\u0438\u043a\u0430\u0442\u0443\u0440\u043d\u044b\u0445 kopi\u00ed, 100-s\u00e1l ovocn\u00e9 „trh\u00e1ky“, jin\u00ed se sna\u017eili vytvo\u0159it rovnov\u00e1hu ve vinici a nedovol\u00ed p\u0159eh\u0159\u00e1t\u00ed bobule, jak se vyj\u00e1d\u0159il mana\u017eer Mastrojanni, p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b „t\u00edm, \u017ee p\u0159ist\u00e1n\u00ed pod spr\u00e1vn\u00fdm \u00fahlem, aby se p\u0159ede\u0161lo sol\u00e1rn\u00ed \u00fader\u016f“.\n <\/p>\n

\nPozemky Schiena d ‚ Asino a Vigna Loreto (v\u00fdrobce Mastrojanni), Ugolaia (Lisini), Manachiara (Silvio Nardi), Fornace (Le Ragnaie), Franci (Fabio Tass) a Pietranera (Centolani) \u2013 to v\u0161echno jsou p\u0159\u00edklady p\u0159\u00edstupu, p\u0159i kter\u00e9m je „v\u00edno ned\u011blaj\u00ed a p\u011bstuj\u00ed“ <\/p>\n

\nFrancesco \u0418\u043b\u043b\u0438 (Francesco Illy) z Podere Le Ripi, p\u00e1d sv\u00e9 vinice ‚Bonsai‘ se zam\u011b\u0159ila realizovat nejhust\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdsadba na sv\u011bt\u011b (62500 r\u00e9vyha).\n <\/p>\n

\n„To dr\u017e\u00ed v\u00fdnosy vinn\u00e9 r\u00e9vy na n\u00edzk\u00e9 \u00farovni a nut\u00ed ko\u0159en j\u00edt hloub\u011bji“, \u2013 \u0159ekl on. R\u00e9va je tak bl\u00edzko vysazeny, \u017ee se protla\u010dil mezi nimi lze pouze byly b\u0159icho. „To je \u0161\u00edlenstv\u00ed, \u2013 souhlas\u00ed s t\u00edm, \u0418\u043b\u043b\u0438, \u2013 ale tak se m\u016f\u017eete vyhnout stresu r\u00e9vy v podm\u00ednk\u00e1ch tepla“. Prvn\u00ed \u0432\u0438\u043d\u0442\u0430\u0436\u0438 s vinice Bonsai (Bonsai) \u0418\u043b\u043b\u0438 a krutost v nov\u00fdch dubov\u00fdch sudech. Ale na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, ale pak se rozhodl p\u0159estat to \u0431\u0435\u0441\u0447\u0438\u043d\u0441\u0442\u0432\u043e a d\u00e1t p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitost, aby se uk\u00e1zala tenkou \u0430\u0440\u043e\u043c\u0430\u0442\u0430\u043c bobul\u00ed.\n <\/p>\n

\nCeny v\u00edna brunello z jednotliv\u00fdch vinic na 10-20% vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed, ne\u017e je b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 brunello.<\/p>\n

Ale platit tuto cenu m\u00e1 smysl, podle m\u00e9ho n\u00e1zoru, pouze je-li v hospod\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed se sna\u017e\u00ed odhalit funkce \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u0430, a ne se s n\u00edm h\u00e1dat. Jako p\u0159\u00edklad takov\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edstupu lze uv\u00e9st Salicutti, Pian dell ‚ Orino & Le Ragnaie \u2013 jedny z nejobl\u00edben\u011bj\u0161\u00edch m\u00fdch brunello, proto\u017ee „pocit prostoru“ (znamen\u00ed \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u0430) v t\u011bchto v\u00ednech je velmi z\u0159eteln\u011b, \u010d\u00e1ste\u010dn\u011b d\u00edky organick\u00e1 slou\u010denina a \u0431\u0438\u043e\u0434\u0438\u043d\u0430\u043c\u0438\u0447\u0435\u0441\u043a\u043e\u043c\u0443 p\u0159\u00edstupu.\n <\/p>\n

\nM\u016f\u017eete si myslet, \u017ee jsem m\u011bl na mysli, \u017ee \u00fazemn\u00ed v\u016fbec m\u00e1 smysl pouze v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b, vinice \u0431\u0438\u043e\u0434\u0438\u043d\u0430\u043c\u0438\u0447\u0435\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0435 organick\u00e9 nebo ne, \u0161patn\u00e9 ekologick\u00e9 zem\u011bd\u011blstv\u00ed a vina\u0159stv\u00ed (co\u017e je mo\u017en\u00e9 a v Montalcino, bohu\u017eel) ucp\u00e1v\u00e1 \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440 je stejn\u011b snadn\u00e9, jako pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed hromady chemik\u00e1li\u00ed.\n <\/p>\n

\nProto\u017ee ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed karty v\u00edn jednotliv\u00fdch vinic neexistuje optim\u00e1ln\u00ed zp\u016fsob, jak porovnat tyto v\u00edna a naj\u00edt slu\u0161n\u00e9 \u2013 to je otev\u0159\u00edt l\u00e1hev, v\u010detn\u011b, s nov\u00fdmi jm\u00e9ny.\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

V\u0161echny brunello poch\u00e1z\u00ed z okol\u00ed m\u011bsta Montalcino, ale nen\u00ed tam \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd jednotn\u00fd styl brunello. A nejlep\u0161\u00ed zp\u016fsob, jak pochopit, je to zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 v\u00edno,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3096","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-informace"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3096","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3096"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3096\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3096"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3096"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3096"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}