{"id":3072,"date":"2020-01-09T12:25:24","date_gmt":"2020-01-09T09:25:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/muze-presto-lambrusco\/"},"modified":"2020-01-09T12:25:24","modified_gmt":"2020-01-09T09:25:24","slug":"muze-presto-lambrusco","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/muze-presto-lambrusco\/","title":{"rendered":"M\u016f\u017ee, p\u0159esto Lambrusco?"},"content":{"rendered":"

\n Moje m\u00e1ma n\u011bjak mi poslal k narozenin\u00e1m pohlednice s n\u00e1pisem: „P\u0159edt\u00edm, ne\u017e naj\u00edt prince, mus\u00ed \u043f\u0435\u0440\u0435\u0446\u0435\u043b\u043e\u0432\u0430\u0442\u044c spoustu ropuchy“. No, mil\u00ed \u010dten\u00e1\u0159i, pr\u00e1v\u011b jsem dokon\u010dil l\u00edbat ropuchy na v\u00e1\u0161 \u00fa\u010det. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed prince se mi nepoda\u0159ilo nal\u00e9zt.
\nA dokonce ne jednoho.\n <\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\n\u041f\u0440\u0438\u043d\u0446\u0430\u043c\u0438 v tomto p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhu vystupuj\u00ed skute\u010dn\u00e9, skute\u010dn\u00e9 vzorky Lambrusco. Stejn\u011b jako ropuchy \u2013 jin\u00e9, pr\u016fmyslov\u00fdch vzor\u016f, vyr\u00e1b\u011bn\u00fdch v takov\u00e9m m\u011b\u0159\u00edtku, kter\u00e9 se v\u00e1m ani \u0441\u043d\u0438\u043b\u0438\u0441\u044c. Ne, je to docela \u0441\u043d\u043e\u0441\u043d\u044b\u0435 v\u00edna \u2013 s dobrou kyselost\u00ed, snadn\u00e9 \u0442\u0430\u043d\u0438\u043d\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c\u044e a docela \u043f\u0435\u043d\u0438\u0441\u0442\u044b\u0435, n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed dokonce lze nazvat dobr\u00e9 \u2013 ale ur\u010dit\u011b ne vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed. <\/p>\n

\nA tady je prvn\u00ed \u2013 vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed. Jsou to oni, l\u00e1kal m\u011b v emilia-romagna-\u0420\u043e\u043c\u0430\u043d\u044c\u044e sv\u00fdmi v\u016fn\u00ed divok\u00fdch t\u0159e\u0161n\u00ed a divok\u00fdch bylin. V tomto Lambrusco je n\u011bco \u043d\u0435\u043e\u0431\u0443\u0437\u0434\u0430\u043d\u043d\u043e\u0435, \u017ee n\u011bco, co nut\u00ed vracet se k n\u011bmu znovu a znovu. Mo\u017en\u00e1 jde o to, \u017ee zp\u016fsob v\u00fdroby m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt nep\u0159edv\u00eddateln\u00e9. Ale m\u016f\u017ee, od toho, \u017ee produkce v\u00edna od nejlep\u0161\u00edch vzork\u016f \u2013 na rozumn\u00fdch \u00farovn\u00edch.\n <\/p>\n

\nObecn\u011b plat\u00ed, \u017ee v\u00fdstupn\u00ed produkt Lambrusco dosahuje kolos\u00e1ln\u00ed hodnoty: do 140 hektolitr\u016f na hektar (srovnej: maxim\u00e1ln\u00ed povolen\u00e9 v\u00fdstup pro z\u00e1kladn\u00ed v\u00edn Bordeaux \u2013 55 chha). „D\u011bl\u00e1\u0161 si srandu?“ \u2013 zeptala jsem se spr\u00e1vce dan\u011b p\u0159i v\u00fdvozu v m\u00edstn\u00ed co-op. „Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b, \u2013 odpov\u011bd\u011bl naprosto v\u00e1\u017en\u011b, dr\u017eet takov\u00e9 n\u00edzk\u00e9 \u00farovni, nen\u00ed v\u017edy snadn\u00e9.“ V\u00fdkonn\u00e9, \u043e\u0440\u043e\u0448\u0430\u0435\u043c\u044b\u0435 r\u00e9vy, \u0432\u044b\u0441\u0430\u0436\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044b\u0435 na planin\u011b v \u00farodn\u00e9 p\u016fd\u011b, v sousedstv\u00ed \u0433\u0440\u0443\u0448\u0435\u0432\u044b\u043c\u0438 stromy a je\u010dmene, \u010dasto produkuj\u00ed mnohem v\u00edce: 200, a to je v\u0161e 300 hl na hektar.\n <\/p>\n

\nZ\u00edskan\u00e9 z nich v\u00edna pak d\u011blaj\u00ed \u0438\u0433\u0440\u0438\u0441\u0442\u044b\u043c\u0438 metodou Sharma, p\u0159eru\u0161en\u00ed kva\u0161en\u00ed, kdy\u017e je v nich je\u0161t\u011b mnoho zbytkov\u00e9ho cukru, aby se vyrovnal vysokou kyselost a \u0442\u0435\u0440\u043f\u043a\u0438\u0435 taniny. N\u011bkdy pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed klasick\u00fd zp\u016fsob (Metoda Classico) \u2013 tak\u00e9 zn\u00e1m\u00fd jako „tradi\u010dn\u00ed“ nebo „\u0448\u0430\u043c\u043f\u0430\u043d\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0439 metoda“ \u2013 pak se v\u00edno vyr\u00e1b\u00ed m\u00edrn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, „hladk\u00fd“, v\u00edce elegantn\u00ed.\n <\/p>\n

\nAle nejv\u00edce n\u00e1s zaj\u00edm\u00e1 Ancestrale Metoda \u2013 tzv. „metoda p\u0159edk\u016f“. To je m\u00edsto, kde je m\u00edsto p\u0159ekvapen\u00edm.\n<\/p>\n

V\u00edno se za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed \u0441\u0431\u0440\u0430\u0436\u0438\u0432\u0430\u0442\u044c v n\u00e1dr\u017e\u00edch \u2013 zhruba do \u00farovn\u011b 10-11% potenci\u00e1ln\u00edho alkoholu \u2013 po kter\u00e9m se \u010depuje ve vina\u0159stv\u00ed, kde se to \u0434\u043e\u0431\u0440\u0430\u0436\u0438\u0432\u0430\u0435\u0442 je\u0161t\u011b na 1-2% a zbytkov\u00fd cukr se z\u00edsk\u00e1v\u00e1 na \u00farovni asi 8 gl (nebo v\u00edce, pokud je vina\u0159, p\u0159eru\u0161en\u00ed kva\u0161en\u00ed chlazen\u00fd). Pot\u00e9 m\u016f\u017ee n\u00e1sledovat \u0440\u0435\u043c\u044e\u0430\u0436 a vyvrhnout, ale ne nutn\u011b: n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed preferuj\u00ed v\u00edno s „\u0442\u0443\u043c\u0430\u043d\u0447\u0438\u043a\u043e\u043c“. Pokud p\u0159ed lahvov\u00e1n\u00edm le\u017e\u00ed toto ot\u0159\u00e1st l\u00e1hev, nen\u00ed minul\u00e9ho vyvrhnout, pak se chu\u0165 bude v\u00fdrazn\u011b li\u0161it: m\u00e9n\u011b \u0444\u0440\u0443\u043a\u0442\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0441\u0442\u0438 a v\u00edce „\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044c\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u0438“, ve srovn\u00e1n\u00ed s v\u00ednem, ve kter\u00e9m dali \u043e\u0442\u0441\u0442\u043e\u044f\u0442\u0441\u044f m\u011blk\u00fd n\u00e1vrh p\u0159ed lahvov\u00e1n\u00edm le\u017e\u00ed toto.\n <\/p>\n

\nVittorio Graziano<\/b> \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee po dlouhou dobu, z\u016fstal jedin\u00fdm, kdo d\u011blal Lambrusco za tuto metodu. Hned za n\u00edm n\u00e1sledovaly dal\u0161\u00ed, v\u010detn\u011b velk\u00e9 firmy, vyr\u00e1b\u011bj\u00edc\u00ed jeden-dva n\u00e1zvy Lambrusco Ancestrale Metoda, zat\u00edmco produkce v\u00edna u „velk\u00fdch bratr\u016f“ je st\u00e1le siln\u011b p\u0159evy\u0161uje jeho pod\u00edl ve 46 ch\u0433\u0430.\n <\/p>\n

\nJ\u00e1 v\u016fbec nechci sni\u017eovat z\u00e1sluhy dobr\u00fdch Lambrusco metodou Sharma \u2013 n\u011bkter\u00e9 z nich jsou velmi dobr\u00e9, a j\u00e1 jsem se \u043f\u043e\u0440\u0443\u0447\u0443\u0441\u044c, \u017ee \u043e\u0442\u043b\u0438\u0447\u0443 jejich naslepo od „\u043a\u0440\u0430\u0444\u0442\u043e\u0432\u044b\u0445“. Pointa je v tom, \u017ee existuje jin\u00e1 \u00farove\u0148 autenticity, Lambrusco, a v nep\u0159\u00edtomnosti dostatek informac\u00ed na etiket\u00e1ch, na kterou by se dalo op\u0159\u00edt p\u0159i hled\u00e1n\u00ed nejlep\u0161\u00edch v\u00edn, rozhodl jsem se za\u010d\u00edt s extr\u00e9my \u0159emesla a tah zp\u011bt k norm\u00e1lu. Ale k norm\u011b jsem se nevr\u00e1til. A tady je p\u00e1r pozn\u00e1mek na konci.\n <\/p>\n

P\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed boom Lambrusco?<\/h2>\n

\nPodle Vittorio Graziano, na konci 1960\u0445 \u2013 roce 1970, na vinic\u00edch roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159ila hniloba. Do t\u00e9 doby hustota p\u0159ist\u00e1n\u00ed bylo mnohem vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed: do 10.000 r\u00e9vy na hektar. Te\u010f je to n\u011bkde 3000 nebo 2000, a to i m\u00e9n\u011b tis\u00edc.\n<\/p>\n

\nP\u0159edpokl\u00e1d\u00e1m, Lambrusco dnes stoj\u00ed na prahu nov\u00e9 hranice. Skromn\u00e9 iniciativy pro o\u017eiven\u00ed autentick\u00fdch v\u00edn p\u0159erostly v z\u00e1va\u017en\u00fd pohyb a let p\u0159es 10 objev\u00ed speci\u00e1ln\u00ed asociace, mo\u017en\u00e1 i zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed l\u00e1hev a uvid\u00edme zrozen\u00ed kultu. A vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed ceny.<\/p>\n

\nVarianta s kopce \u2013 Lambrusco \u0413\u0440\u0430\u0441\u043f\u0430\u0440\u043e\u0441\u0441\u0430 (Lambrusco Grasparossa) \u2013 toto v\u00edno \u0447\u0435\u0440\u043d\u0438\u043b\u044c\u043d\u043e-\u010derven\u00e9 barvy, s purpurea p\u011bnou a patrn\u00e9 taniny.\n<\/p>\n

Lambrusco \u0421\u043e\u0440\u0431\u0430\u0440\u0430 (Lambrusco Sorbara) \u2013 pl\u00e1n\u00ed z\u00e1stupce, s v\u00fdraznou jahodovou barvou a v\u016fn\u00ed, m\u00e9n\u011b asertivn\u00ed, ale s charakteristick\u00fdm pro v\u0161echny Lambrusco kyselost.\n<\/p>\n

\nCelkem existuje 9 r\u016fzn\u00fdch druh\u016f hrozn\u016f Lambrusco, v\u010detn\u011b \u0421\u0430\u043b\u0430\u043c\u0438\u043d\u043e (Salamino), \u041c\u0430\u044d\u0441\u0442\u0440\u0438 (Maestri) a \u041c\u0430\u0440\u0430\u043d\u0438 (Marani). A tak\u00e9, ne m\u00e9n\u011b ne\u017e 5 r\u016fzn\u00fdch DOC\u043e\u0432 : Sorbara, Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Salamino di Santa Croce, Modena Rosato a Modena Rosso.\n<\/p>\n

(Viz. druhy Lambrusco)<\/p>\n

\nTo v\u0161e n\u00e1m \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 o tom, \u017ee Lambrusco n\u00e1m p\u00edt a p\u00edt… A d\u00e1 se bez v\u0161eho. Nebo jako aperitiv. Zejm\u00e9na Lambrusco Sorbara. A jist\u00fd Grasparossa je mo\u017en\u00e9 podat i na hlavn\u00ed j\u00eddlo. Dobr\u00fd Lambrusco s m\u00edstn\u00edm j\u00eddlem \u2013 je to p\u00edse\u0148.\n<\/p>\n

\nV such\u00fdch verz\u00edch \u00farove\u0148 zbytkov\u00e9ho cukru n\u011bkde 15 gl, ale nejlep\u0161\u00ed vzorky na chu\u0165 bude zcela such\u00e9 (a kyselost je t\u0159eba n\u011b\u010d\u00edm vyva\u017eovat).\n<\/p>\n

\nPolosuch\u00e1 v\u00edna maj\u00ed v\u00fdrazn\u00fd sladkost v chuti. No a amabile \u2013 up\u0159\u00edmn\u011b \u0159e\u010deno, sladk\u00e9.\n<\/p>\n

\nOsobn\u011b jsem koneckonc\u016f v\u00e1z\u00e1na such\u00e9ho. Ale na \u0441\u043b\u0430\u0434\u0435\u043d\u044c\u043a\u043e\u043c\u0443 n\u011bkdy nen\u00ed pry\u010d…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Moje m\u00e1ma n\u011bjak mi poslal k narozenin\u00e1m pohlednice s n\u00e1pisem: „P\u0159edt\u00edm, ne\u017e naj\u00edt prince, mus\u00ed \u043f\u0435\u0440\u0435\u0446\u0435\u043b\u043e\u0432\u0430\u0442\u044c spoustu ropuchy“. No, mil\u00ed \u010dten\u00e1\u0159i, pr\u00e1v\u011b jsem…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3072","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-informace"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3072","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3072"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3072\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3072"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3072"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3072"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}