{"id":3024,"date":"2020-01-09T12:05:07","date_gmt":"2020-01-09T09:05:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/bezne-chablis\/"},"modified":"2020-01-09T12:05:07","modified_gmt":"2020-01-09T09:05:07","slug":"bezne-chablis","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/bezne-chablis\/","title":{"rendered":"B\u011b\u017en\u00e9 Chablis"},"content":{"rendered":"

\nBudete se divit, jak dobr\u00e9 mohou b\u00fdt konven\u010dn\u00ed v\u00edna Chablis (tj. jednoduch\u00e9ho t\u0159\u00eddy AOC Chablis), a to zejm\u00e9na ned\u00e1vn\u00e9 \u0432\u0438\u043d\u0442\u0430\u0436\u0435\u0439.
\n Podez\u0159en\u00ed, \u017ee je ve slep\u00e9 degustaci mnoz\u00ed p\u0159\u00edslu\u0161n\u00edci „jen Chablis“ ne, ustoupila by \u043f\u0440\u0435\u043c\u044c\u0435 cru. V mnoha ohledech je to d\u016fsledek vysok\u00e9 kvality ro\u010dn\u00edk\u016f posledn\u00edch let.\n <\/p>\n

\n V letech 2007 a 2008 se i ty ne\u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u00e9 se nach\u00e1z\u00ed m\u00edst, kde m\u00e1 slu\u0161n\u011b slunce, aby vypadali star\u0161\u00ed, tak\u017ee roli nuance p\u016fdy a na svaz\u00edch nen\u00ed tak rozhoduj\u00edc\u00ed, jako v slab\u00e9 a \u0161patn\u00e9 roky, kdy ka\u017ed\u00fd paprsek slunce pro m\u00edstn\u00ed vinice \u043a\u0440\u0438\u0442\u0438\u0447\u0435\u043d.\n<\/p>\n

\nStejn\u011b jako v Cote d ‚ Or, vinice Chablis maj\u00ed hierarchii: grand cru, \u043f\u0440\u0435\u043c\u044c\u0435 cru a konven\u010dn\u00ed (v\u010detn\u011b Petit Chablis). Ale politika jejich po\u0159ad\u00ed nen\u00ed k dispozici pro ne\u010dleny: d\u016fvody, pro\u010d jsou sami, a ne ostatn\u00ed pozemky s \u010dasem p\u0159echod z b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 na \u043f\u0440\u0435\u043c\u044c\u0435 cru, nen\u00ed zcela jasn\u00e9.\n<\/p>\n

\nV Chablis expozice, zd\u00e1 se, znamen\u00e1 v\u00edc, ne\u017e p\u016fda. \u041a\u0438\u043c\u043c\u0435\u0440\u0438\u0434\u0436\u0438\u0439\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0439 v\u00e1penec, ur\u010dit\u011b je velmi cen\u011bn, a d\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00edna skv\u011blou \u010distotu, co\u017e je v\u00edce, ne\u017e m\u016f\u017ee d\u00e1t \u043f\u043e\u0440\u0442\u043b\u0430\u043d\u0434\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0439 v\u00e1penec. Ale:\n<\/p>\n

\n Pokud se pod\u00edv\u00e1te pozorn\u011b, zjistil, \u017ee jedin\u00fd podstatn\u00fd rozd\u00edl mnoha m\u00edst grand cru od b\u011b\u017en\u00fdch pozemk\u016f \u2013 je to expozice: to se v\u00e1m vpravo \u043f\u0440\u0435\u043c\u044c\u0435 cru \u0412\u0430\u0439\u043e\u043d (Vaillons), a svahy vlevo \u2013 jednoduch\u00fd \u0432\u0438\u043b\u043b\u044f\u0436, tj. b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 Chablis.\n <\/p>\n

\n Ano, tam jsou mal\u00e9 rozd\u00edly ve slo\u017een\u00ed p\u016fdy, ale hlavn\u00ed rozd\u00edl je v tom, \u017ee \u0412\u0430\u0439\u043e\u043d je orientovan\u00fd na jih jiho-v\u00fdchod a sjezdovky p\u0159es silnici \u2013 ne, a proto jejich expozice nen\u00ed tak dobr\u00e1.\n<\/p>\n

\nZvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b z\u0159eteln\u011b je to vid\u011bt na p\u0159\u00edkladu grand cru a nejlep\u0161\u00edch m\u00edst \u043f\u0440\u0435\u043c\u044c\u0435 cru, jako \u0424\u0443\u0440\u0448\u043e\u043c (Fourchaume) a Monte de \u0422\u043e\u043d\u043d\u0435\u0440 (Montee de Tonnerre). V ostatn\u00edch p\u0159\u00edpadech je rozd\u00edl, nen\u00ed tak z\u0159ejm\u00e9. A to je jeden z d\u016fvod\u016f toho, \u017ee b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 Chablis taky m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u00e9 kvality.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nDal\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1sadn\u00ed faktor je v\u011bk vinn\u00e9 r\u00e9vy je. N\u011bkter\u00e9 farmy vlastn\u00ed pozemky, \u043a\u043b\u0430\u0441\u0441\u0438\u0444\u0438\u0446\u0438\u0440\u043e\u0432\u0430\u043d\u043d\u044b\u043c\u0438 jen jako Chablis, ale se star\u00fdmi r\u00e9vou, kter\u00fd koncentrovan\u00e1 v\u00edna s v\u00fdraznou individualitou.\n<\/p>\n

\nTo vysv\u011btluje, pro\u010d se u n\u011bkter\u00fdch dom\u00e1cnost\u00ed (ne u v\u0161ech), speci\u00e1ln\u00ed cuv\u00e9e „\u0432\u044c\u0435\u0439 vinh“<\/b> (cuvee vieilles vignes \u2013 v\u00edno ze star\u00fdch vinic<\/b>), vyr\u00e1b\u011bn\u00e9 v krom\u011b sv\u00e9 standardn\u00ed sestav\u011b chablis, maj\u00ed se skute\u010dn\u00fdm \u017eivouc\u00edm charakterem.\n<\/p>\n

\nHlavn\u00ed expanze p\u0159ist\u00e1n\u00ed v Chablis p\u0159i\u0161lo v polovin\u011b 1980\u0445, tak\u017ee i tyto vinn\u00e9 r\u00e9vy je ji\u017e zna\u010dn\u011b star\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e 20 let. Oni ztratili mladou s\u00edlu, a jejich v\u00fdnosy ji\u017e sama o sob\u011b zavazuje k p\u0159ijateln\u00e9 \u00farovni.\n<\/p>\n

\nGlob\u00e1ln\u00ed oteplov\u00e1n\u00ed taky hraje svou roli. Oblasti, jako je okol\u00ed \u0424\u043e\u043d\u0442\u0435\u043d\u0435 severn\u011b od m\u011bsta Chablis, na dlouhou dobu byly pova\u017eov\u00e1ny za ji\u017e extr\u00e9mn\u011b vysok\u00e9 pro hrozny, a nyn\u00ed zde p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00e9 a kuku\u0159i\u010dn\u00e9 pole ustupuj\u00ed kvalitn\u00edm vinic.\n <\/p>\n

\n\u017d\u00e1dn\u00e9 rozd\u00edly a v \u0432\u0438\u043d\u0438\u0444\u0438\u043a\u0430\u0446\u0438\u0438 b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 Chablis a grand cru. Pokud v Cote d ‚ Or, nejlep\u0161\u00ed b\u00edl\u00e1 v\u00edna lovu a \u0432\u044b\u0434\u0435\u0440\u0436\u0438\u0432\u0430\u044e\u0442\u0441\u044f v dub\u011b, s jistou m\u00edrou nov\u00fdch sud\u016f, pak v Chablis v\u011bt\u0161ina \u043f\u0440\u0435\u043c\u044c\u0435 cru, stejn\u011b jako b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 Chablis (\u0432\u0438\u043b\u043b\u044f\u0436), se uplat\u0148uje v ocelov\u00fdch n\u00e1dr\u017e\u00edch.\n<\/p>\n

\n Pokud zde a pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 dub, pak sp\u00ed\u0161e v podob\u011b star\u00fdch sud\u016f \u2013 v z\u00e1jmu i. \u043e\u043a\u0441\u0438\u0434\u0438\u0437\u0430\u0446\u0438\u0438 (saturace kysl\u00edkem), a ne pro ud\u011blen\u00ed dubov\u00fdch t\u00f3n\u016f. Tak\u017ee Chablis v\u0161echny \u00farovn\u011b vlastn\u00ed transparentnost kytice, v n\u011bm\u017e \u010distota ovocn\u00fdch pozn\u00e1mek z\u0159\u00eddka \u0437\u0430\u0441\u043b\u043e\u043d\u044f\u0435\u0442\u0441\u044f chut\u00ed a v\u016fn\u00ed d\u0159eva.\n <\/p>\n

\nTam je kam r\u016fst<\/h3>\n

\nA p\u0159esto, \u017ee cestuje p\u0159es vinice, vznik\u00e1 pocit, \u017ee tato v\u00edna mohou b\u00fdt je\u0161t\u011b lep\u0161\u00ed. Mnoz\u00ed p\u011bstitel\u00e9 st\u00e1le pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed herbicidy, a na v\u011bt\u0161in\u011b vinic se pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 mechanizovan\u00e9 poplatek. I kdy\u017e se jednotliv\u00e9 zvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 odpov\u011bdn\u00e9 v\u00fdrobci jako Brocard a Pascal Bouchard p\u0159em\u011b\u0148uj\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st vinic na ekologick\u00e9 zem\u011bd\u011blstv\u00ed, jsou v prominentn\u00ed men\u0161in\u011b. A zat\u00edmco na grand cru se cvi\u010d\u00ed p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b ru\u010dn\u00ed sb\u011br, v z\u00e1kladn\u00ed hmot\u011b vinic m\u00e1 m\u00edsto velk\u00e1 v\u00fdnosy a strojov\u00fd sb\u011br.\n<\/p>\n

\nSamoz\u0159ejm\u011b, strojov\u00fd sb\u011br m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt ospravedln\u011bn. Ale je t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 odolat my\u0161lenky, \u017ee pokud jste v\u00edna Chablis tolik pozornosti a o to, jak na b\u00edl\u00e1 v\u00edna Cote d ‚ Or, jejich kvalita by byla fenomen\u00e1ln\u00ed.\n<\/p>\n

\nDobr\u00e9 \u00faseky, vhodn\u00e9 klony, n\u00edzk\u00e9 v\u00fdnosy, pr\u016fm\u011brn\u00e9 vyu\u017eit\u00ed nov\u00fdch sud\u016f a zr\u00e1n\u00ed na zneklid\u0148uj\u00edc\u00ed mohou vytv\u00e1\u0159et p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010div\u00e9 soupe\u0159i b\u00edl\u00e9 Burgundsk\u00e9. Jedn\u00edm z p\u0159\u00edklad\u016f toho, co m\u016f\u017ee oby\u010dejn\u00fd vinice Chablis AOC v \u0161ikovn\u00fdch rukou \u2013 to Chablis Billaud-Simon Villages<\/p>\n

Chardonnay „bez duba“ z\u00edsk\u00e1v\u00e1 st\u00e1le v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed popularitu v Kalifornii a Austr\u00e1lii, ale sotva se jim poda\u0159\u00ed v\u016fbec srovn\u00e1vat s \u044d\u043d\u0435\u0440\u0433\u0438\u0447\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c\u044e a \u043c\u0438\u043d\u0435\u0440\u0430\u043b\u044c\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c\u044e Chablis.\n<\/p>\n

\nV podm\u00ednk\u00e1ch, kdy francouzsk\u00e1 v\u00edna t\u0159\u00eddy \u043f\u0440\u0435\u043c\u044c\u0435 cru a grand cru se mnoh\u00fdm zdaj\u00ed p\u0159edra\u017een\u00e9, b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 Chablis d\u00e1v\u00e1 mo\u017enost z\u00edskat vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed v\u00edno za docela rozumn\u00e9 pen\u00edze, s jen trochu \u00fasil\u00ed, prohl\u00ed\u017eet internetov\u00e9 str\u00e1nky firmy a na vinic\u00edch.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Budete se divit, jak dobr\u00e9 mohou b\u00fdt konven\u010dn\u00ed v\u00edna Chablis (tj. jednoduch\u00e9ho t\u0159\u00eddy AOC Chablis), a to zejm\u00e9na ned\u00e1vn\u00e9 \u0432\u0438\u043d\u0442\u0430\u0436\u0435\u0439. Podez\u0159en\u00ed, \u017ee je…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3024","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-informace"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3024","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3024"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3024\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3024"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3024"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3024"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}