{"id":2998,"date":"2020-01-09T11:54:40","date_gmt":"2020-01-09T08:54:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/rioja\/"},"modified":"2020-01-09T11:54:40","modified_gmt":"2020-01-09T08:54:40","slug":"rioja","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/rioja\/","title":{"rendered":"Rioja"},"content":{"rendered":"

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\nMilovn\u00edk\u016fm \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9ho v\u00edna Rioja je schopen nab\u00eddnout v\u0161e od jednoduch\u00fdch, nen\u00ed kdo v\u00ed dubu v\u00edn do tradi\u010dn\u00edch, zr\u00e1lo v americk\u00e9m dub\u011b tempranillo, od trendy modern\u00ed \u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u0434\u043e\u0432 a\u017e orientovan\u00e9 na maxim\u00e1ln\u00ed „\u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c“ vzork\u016f.\n<\/p>\n

\nV tomto \u010dl\u00e1nku Master V\u00edna Sarah Jane Evans (Sarah Jane Evans, MW) zkoum\u00e1 r\u016fzn\u00e9 styly Rioja.\n<\/p>\n

N\u00e1\u0161 p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh za\u010dal v 1980\u043c : do t\u00e9to doby neexistovala ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed d\u011blen\u00ed Rioja v\u00edna „\u043a\u0440\u0438\u0430\u043d\u0441\u0430“ (crianza), „\u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435\u0440\u0432\u0430“ (reserva) a „grand \u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435\u0440\u0432\u0430“ (gran reserva). Na \u0161t\u00edtky a\u017e do roku 1980, prost\u011b vsadili rok sklizn\u011b. P\u0159i tomto v l\u00e1hvi mohlo b\u00fdt cokoliv \u2013 od \u0434\u0443\u0431\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0433\u043e stylu „grand \u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435\u0440\u0432\u044b“ do \u043a\u0430\u0440\u0431\u043e\u043d\u0438\u0447\u0435\u0441\u043a\u043e\u0439 macerac\u00ed ve stylu Beaujolais Nouveau.\n<\/p>\n

\nUplynulo let 20 \u2013 \u0161la nov\u00e1 vlna modern\u00edho Rioja. Tato v\u00edna, na rozd\u00edl od tradi\u010dn\u00edch, nedal \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 z\u00e1ruky v\u011bku.\n<\/p>\n

\nDal\u0161\u00edch 15 let dop\u0159edu \u2013 a to je d\u016fvod, zam\u011b\u0159en\u00ed odr\u016fdy hrozn\u016f a \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440.\n<\/p>\n

\nZa p\u00e1r des\u00edtek let jednoduch\u00e9 z\u00e1klady v\u00fdroby v\u00edna Rioja se uk\u00e1zaly b\u00fdt rozmazan\u00e9. Na druh\u00e9 stran\u011b, 35 let pozd\u011bji obr\u00e1zek zase za\u010dne objevovat.\n<\/p>\n

Tradi\u010dn\u00ed Rioja proti modern\u00ed<\/h2>\n

\nV pod\u00e1n\u00ed v\u011bt\u0161iny, tradi\u010dn\u00ed Rioja star\u00e9 \u0161koly \u2013 je to hmatateln\u011b v\u011bku v americk\u00e9m dub\u011b v\u00edno, p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b z odr\u016fdy tempranillo, velmi hust\u00fd, s m\u00edrn\u00fdm obsahem alkoholu a charakteristickou v\u016fn\u00ed v\u011bku \u2013 velmi harmonick\u00e9 a elegantn\u00ed.\n<\/p>\n

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\nV \u0431\u043e\u0434\u0435\u0433\u0430\u0445 Rioja zat\u00edm dr\u017e\u00ed pom\u011brn\u011b m\u00e1lo lahv\u00ed tohoto v\u00edna, \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9 restaurace s vlastn\u00edmi sklepy st\u00e1le prod\u00e1vaj\u00ed za docela rozumn\u00e9 ceny.\n<\/p>\n

\nTyto v\u00edna \u2013 nen\u00ed \u010dast\u00e9 mezin\u00e1rodn\u00edch aukc\u00ed. Ale z\u00e1jem o n\u011b neust\u00e1le roste. A \u017ee bude zastupovat ze sebe vyr\u00e1b\u011bn\u00e1 dnes Rioja p\u0159es 50 let?\n<\/p>\n

\nTato v\u00edna se zm\u011bnily. I nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed zast\u00e1nci klasiky se dnes v\u011bnuj\u00ed v\u00edce pozornosti a vinn\u00e9 r\u00e9vy a vina\u0159stv\u00ed. Mnoho tradi\u010dn\u00edch v\u00edno ji\u017e nesou otisk doby.\n<\/p>\n

\nSkute\u010dn\u011b charakteristick\u00fdm znakem Rioja nov\u00e9 vlny se stala intenzivn\u00ed barva a super koncentrovan\u00fd charakter t\u011bchto v\u00edn, d\u00edky kter\u00fdm u nich zv\u00fd\u0161il fanou\u0161k\u016f mezi milovn\u00edky nasycen\u00fdch ovocn\u00fdch \u010derven\u00fdch.\n<\/p>\n

\nTakov\u00e9 v\u00edno je v\u00fdsledkem zam\u011b\u0159\u00edme na \u043b\u043e\u0437\u0430\u0445, \u2013 zejm\u00e9na pokud jde o v\u00fdzkum klon\u016f (jako ti, co dr\u017e\u00ed Roda, nap\u0159\u00edklad), sn\u00ed\u017een\u00ed v\u00fdnosu, fermentace odd\u011blen\u00fdmi mal\u00e9 strany a zr\u00e1n\u00ed ve francouzsk\u00e9m dub\u011b.\n<\/p>\n

\n\u010casto to byli v\u00edna z 100% tempranillo. Oni byli propu\u0161t\u011bni na trh po tak dlouh\u00e9 zr\u00e1n\u00ed v sudechlahv\u00edch. Krom\u011b \u010dist\u011b stylistick\u00e9 \u00fa\u010dinky, je to rozhodn\u011b v\u00edce ne\u017e zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 \u0432\u0438\u043d\u043e\u0434\u0435\u043b\u0443 z obchodn\u00edho hlediska, proto\u017ee urychluje n\u00e1vratnost investice.\n<\/p>\n

\u010cistota z slo\u017eitosti<\/h3>\n

D\u00edky bohu, \u017ee \u010dasy inkoustov\u00fdch, \u0441\u043b\u0430\u0449\u0430\u0432\u044b\u0445 a p\u0159et\u00ed\u017een\u00e9 dubu \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445 jako \u043c\u0438\u043d\u0443\u043b\u0438. Dnes region nab\u00edz\u00ed brilantn\u00ed palety mo\u017enost\u00ed. I kdy\u017e st\u00e1le existuje prostor pro v\u00fdzkum, stejn\u011b jako v ka\u017ed\u00e9m vina\u0159sk\u00e9m regionu \u00farovn\u011b.\n<\/p>\n

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\nAby se alespo\u0148 dub: v\u00fdrobci v\u00edn „grand prix \u0440\u0435\u0441\u0435\u0440\u0432\u0430“ sm\u011bs francouzsk\u00e9ho a americk\u00e9ho dubu, v\u010detn\u011b t\u011bch, kte\u0159\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b ned\u00e1vno „sed\u011bl“ pouze na nov\u00fdch francouzsk\u00fdch sudech. \u041d\u0435\u0443\u0435\u043c\u043d\u043e\u0435 pou\u017eit\u00ed duba postupn\u011b ustupuje produkovat v\u00edce \u0441\u043b\u0430\u0436\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044b\u0445 a v\u00edce sofistikovan\u00fdch v\u00edn.\n<\/p>\n

\nCo se t\u00fd\u010de odr\u016fd, pak je velmi mnoho modern\u00ed vina\u0159i d\u011blaj\u00ed \u010dist\u00fd tempranillo. Osobn\u011b preferuji slune\u010dn\u00ed clona. Samo o sob\u011b je pou\u017eit\u00ed jedn\u00e9 odr\u016fdy \u017e\u00e1dnou v\u00fdhodu, krom\u011b srozumitelnosti ozna\u010den\u00ed.\n<\/p>\n

\n\u041c\u0430\u0441\u0443\u044d\u043b\u043e (\u043a\u0430\u0440\u0438\u043d\u044c\u044f\u043d), \u0433\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u0447\u0430 a \u0433\u0440\u0430\u0441\u0438\u0430\u043d\u043e dlouho hraj\u00ed svou malou, ale d\u016fle\u017eitou roli. Jako cabernet sauvignon, objevil se v \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0435 z Marques de Riscal v letech 1862. V posledn\u00edch letech p\u0159i\u0161el trend pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed t\u011bchto „ni\u017e\u0161\u00edch“ druh\u016f v s\u00f3lov\u00e9 p\u0159edstaven\u00ed. \u0413\u0440\u0430\u0441\u0438\u0430\u043d\u043e od Contino lze sm\u011ble ozna\u010dit za \u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u00fd p\u0159\u00edpad, zejm\u00e9na s ohledem na probl\u00e9my pr\u00e1ce s touto odr\u016fdou.\n<\/p>\n

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\n\u0413\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u0447\u0443 z teplej\u0161\u00edch \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed Rioja dlouhou dobu pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed v \u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u0434\u0430\u0445 vina\u0159i jej\u00ed chladn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti \u2013 Rioja Alta. Nyn\u00ed u \u0433\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u0447\u0438 objevil mocn\u00e9 zast\u00e1nce v osob\u011b Alvaro \u041f\u0430\u043b\u0430\u0441\u0438\u043e\u0441\u0430 (Alvaro Palacios, v\u00fdrobce v\u00edna „L ‚ Ermita“), kter\u00fd pracuje na obnoven\u00ed dobr\u00e9ho jm\u00e9na t\u00e9to odr\u016fdy je ve v\u00fdchodn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti Rioja \u2013 v Alfaro (Rioja Baja). M\u016f\u017eete hledat pro n\u011bj v\u00edno Valmira \u2013 z \u0433\u0430\u0440\u043d\u0430\u0447\u0438 ze star\u00fdch vinic \u2013 „velmi \u0431\u0443\u0440\u0433\u0443\u043d\u0434\u0441\u043a\u043e\u0435, velmi aromatick\u00e9“.\n<\/p>\n

\nZ nov\u00e1\u010dk\u016f, na vinic\u00edch se objevuj\u00ed takov\u00e9 odr\u016fdy jako \u043c\u0430\u0442\u0443\u0440\u0430\u043d\u0430 tinta (Maturana Tinta, \u010derven\u00e1 \u043c\u0430\u0442\u0443\u0440\u0430\u043d\u0430), d\u00e1v\u00e1 \u010derven\u00e9 v\u00edno dobrou kyselost; a tempranillo blanco (tempranillo a nez\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed Blanco, b\u00edl\u00e1 tempranillo) \u2013 genetick\u00e9 mutace tempranillo, \u043e\u0431\u0435\u0449\u0430\u044e\u0449\u0430\u044f \u043f\u043e\u043b\u043d\u043e\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044b\u0435 b\u00edl\u00e9 v\u00edno, nen\u00ed postr\u00e1d\u00e1 sv\u011b\u017eest. <\/p>\n

Ale jim je\u0161t\u011b pot\u0159ebuje \u010das, aby se tvo\u0159it a za\u010d\u00edt d\u00e1vat n\u011bjak\u00fd v\u00fdrazn\u00fd sklize\u0148.\n<\/p>\n

P\u0159i hled\u00e1n\u00ed \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u0430<\/h3>\n

V z\u00e1sad\u011b, v trendu posledn\u00ed doby, nen\u00ed nic nov\u00e9ho. To je vzestup nov\u00e9 generace producent\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed cht\u011bj\u00ed to nejlep\u0161\u00ed vyj\u00e1d\u0159en\u00ed povahy jejich vinic. Pro\u0159ez\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed \u0433\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0435, star\u00e9 r\u00e9vy, men\u0161\u00ed nov\u00e9ho dubov\u00e9ho d\u0159eva \u2013 to je to prav\u00e9 na jejich styl prvky.\n<\/p>\n

\nSlo\u017eitost je v tom, \u017ee Rioja \u2013 geologicky velmi heterogenn\u00ed region, kter\u00fd se nach\u00e1z\u00ed mezi jednotliv\u00fdmi horsk\u00fdmi p\u00e1smy, na obou b\u0159ez\u00edch \u0159eky Ebro. V n\u011bm existuje a \u0438\u0437\u0432\u0435\u0441\u0442\u043d\u044f\u043a\u043e\u0432\u043e-hlin\u011bn\u00e9 p\u016fdy, a \u0433\u043b\u0438\u043d\u0438\u0441\u0442\u043e-dus\u00edkat\u00e1, a \u0430\u043b\u043b\u044e\u0432\u0438\u0439.\n<\/p>\n

\nPokud je zjednodu\u0161en\u00fd, Rioja Alta<\/strong> (Rioja Alta), kter\u00e1 se nach\u00e1z\u00ed nad ostatn\u00ed na z\u00e1pad\u011b, \u010dasto d\u00e1v\u00e1 klidn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed v\u00edna, a p\u0159itom s jasn\u00fdm \u0444\u0440\u0443\u043a\u0442\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c\u044e. Na sever od \u0159eky Ebro \u2013 Rioja Alavesa<\/strong> (Rioja Alavesa) \u2013 pevnost odr\u016fdy Tempranillo: v\u00edce \u043f\u043e\u043b\u043d\u043e\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044b\u0435, v\u00edce sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed v\u00edna.\n<\/p>\n

\nRioja Baja<\/strong> (Rioja Baja) \u2013 na v\u00fdchod\u011b \u2013 teplej\u0161\u00ed, pod zemi (zavla\u017eov\u00e1n\u00ed zde povoleno), s v\u00fdrazn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed st\u0159edomo\u0159sk\u00e9 klima: zde jsou syt\u00e9 v\u00edno s vy\u0161\u0161\u00edm obsahem alkoholu.\n<\/p>\n

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\nN\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed velc\u00ed v\u00fdrobci d\u00e1vaj\u00ed p\u0159ednost m\u00edchat v\u00edna z r\u016fzn\u00fdch vinic, dal\u0161\u00ed se sna\u017e\u00ed vyj\u00e1d\u0159it jejich individu\u00e1ln\u00ed \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u044b (mezi nimi Benjamin Romeo, David Sampedro Gil, Olivier Riviere, Abel Mendoza a san Telmo Rodriguez).\n<\/p>\n

\nPokud odstran\u00edte dva extr\u00e9my \u2013 tj. ty \u043a\u043e\u043f\u0435\u0435\u0447\u043d\u044b\u0435 masov\u00e9 zna\u010dky a absurdn\u00ed honosn\u00fd l\u00e1hve s \u0437\u0430\u0434\u0443\u0448\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044b\u043c dubu tempranillo v polovin\u011b z\u016fstane \u0161irok\u00e9 a barevn\u00e9 spektrum, kter\u00e9 stoj\u00ed za prozkoum\u00e1n\u00ed. Vyberete si n\u011bco, nalijte si sklenku a zamyslete se nad t\u00edm, \u017ee ka\u017ed\u00e1 tradice, jak se \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, za\u010dala jako inovace. Pro Rioja je to pravdiv\u011b, jako nikdy. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Milovn\u00edk\u016fm \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9ho v\u00edna Rioja je schopen nab\u00eddnout v\u0161e od jednoduch\u00fdch, nen\u00ed kdo v\u00ed dubu v\u00edn do tradi\u010dn\u00edch, zr\u00e1lo v americk\u00e9m dub\u011b tempranillo, od…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2998","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-informace"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2998","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2998"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2998\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2998"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2998"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2998"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}