{"id":2994,"date":"2020-01-09T11:53:03","date_gmt":"2020-01-09T08:53:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/spanelske-pago\/"},"modified":"2020-01-09T11:53:03","modified_gmt":"2020-01-09T08:53:03","slug":"spanelske-pago","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/spanelske-pago\/","title":{"rendered":"\u0160pan\u011blsk\u00e9 „Pago“"},"content":{"rendered":"

\n \u0417\u0430\u0442\u0435\u0439\u043b\u0438\u0432\u044b\u0439 vzoru evropsk\u00fdch vina\u0159sk\u00fdch klasifikace je schopen vstoupit do n\u011bmoty. Tady je je\u0161t\u011b jedna vr\u00e1ska na \u0441\u043c\u043e\u0440\u0449\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044b\u0439 v nap\u011bt\u00ed \u010delo.\n <\/p>\n

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\nNejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed stupe\u0148 ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9 vinn\u00e9 klasifikace Vino de Pago<\/strong>, jak a soukrom\u00e9 asociace Grandes Pagos de Espa\u00f1a<\/strong> (Velk\u00e9 Pago ve \u0160pan\u011blsku), m\u00e1 z\u00e1klad v my\u0161lence v\u00edna z jednotliv\u00fdch vinic \u2013 „chyba jednoho hospod\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed“. Na tomto jejich podobnosti kon\u010d\u00ed, a za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 zmatek.\n<\/p>\n

\nV roce 2003 ve \u0160pan\u011blsku byl p\u0159edstaven nov\u00fd ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed kategorie v\u00edn \u2013 DO Vino de Pago, \u0443\u0432\u0435\u043d\u0447\u0430\u0432\u0448\u0430\u044f \u0161pi\u010dku klasifikace \u2013 vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed kategorii DOC\/DOQ Rioja a \u041f\u0440\u0438\u043e\u0440\u0430\u0442\u0430.\n<\/p>\n

\nJedn\u00edm z d\u016fsledk\u016f t\u00e9to inovace se stal z\u00e1kaz nov\u011b vznikaj\u00edc\u00ed dom\u00e1cnosti pou\u017e\u00edvat slovo „pago“ v jejich n\u00e1zvech. \u017de, obecn\u011b \u0159e\u010deno, stroze, proto\u017ee je to \u043e\u0431\u0449\u0435\u0443\u043f\u043e\u0442\u0440\u0435\u0431\u0438\u043c\u043e\u0435 slovo, kter\u00e9 je ve \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9m jazyce v podstat\u011b znamen\u00e1, \u017ee pozemek, vinici nebo. <\/p>\n

\nA „Vino de Pago“ (Vino de Pago), a „Velk\u00e9 Pago ve \u0160pan\u011blsku“ (GPdE, Grandes Pagos de Espana) p\u0159edlo\u017eila \u0159adu po\u017eadavk\u016f, kter\u00e9 mus\u00edte splnit, chcete-li zachovat v nich \u010dlenstv\u00ed. Oni nejsou vz\u00e1jemn\u011b se vylu\u010duj\u00edc\u00ed, ale p\u0159echod mezi nimi vz\u00e1cn\u00e9: <\/p>\n

Celkem existuje 14 Vinos de Pago a 30 GPdE, a p\u0159i tom jen 6 farem, kter\u00e9 spadaj\u00ed do obou kategori\u00ed (za\u010d\u00e1tek roku 2015).\n <\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nPravideln\u011b lze sly\u0161et tvrzen\u00ed, \u017ee ne v\u0161ichni dr\u017eitel\u00e9 statusu „Vino de Pago“ p\u0159\u00edsn\u011b dodr\u017euj\u00ed stanoven\u00e9 pro n\u011b pravidla.
\nTam jsou v\u00fdtky v t\u00e9to kategorii a v tom, \u017ee to je v\u011bc sama o sob\u011b, \u0159\u00edzenou vlivn\u00fdmi producenty, kte\u0159\u00ed se na toho \u010di onoho d\u016fvodu necht\u011bj\u00ed spojovat s DO, k n\u00ed\u017e pat\u0159\u00ed geograficky.\n<\/p>\n

\nDal\u0161\u00edm kamenem \u00farazu je skute\u010dnost, \u017ee mnoz\u00ed (ne v\u0161ichni, ale mnoho), jako zem\u011bd\u011blstv\u00ed d\u011blaj\u00ed v\u00edno z mezin\u00e1rodn\u00edch odr\u016fd nebo odr\u016fd, kter\u00e9 nejsou „dom\u00e1c\u00ed“, k jejich regionu, je, \u017ee nezapad\u00e1 do koncepce maxim\u00e1ln\u00edho odrazu \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u0430.\n<\/p>\n

Mimo ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed klasifikace<\/h2>\n

\nJe\u0161t\u011b v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed mlze nazna\u010duje, \u017ee do\u0161lo ke zv\u00fd\u0161en\u00ed hmotnosti asociace v\u00fdrobc\u016f Velk\u00fdch Pago ve \u0160pan\u011blsku \u2013 Grandes Pagos de Espana (GPdE), kter\u00fd se objevil v roce 2000 jako Grandes Pagos de Castilla, ale kter\u00e1 dnes v zem\u011bd\u011blstv\u00ed se po cel\u00e9 zemi.\n<\/p>\n

\nP\u016fvodn\u00edm z\u00e1m\u011brem 8 zakl\u00e1daj\u00edc\u00edch \u010dlen\u016f bylo spojit \u00fasil\u00ed k propagaci v\u00edn Kastilie-Le\u00f3n a Kastilie-La \u041c\u0430\u043d\u0447\u0438. Nicm\u00e9n\u011b postupem \u010dasu se k nim cht\u011bli p\u0159ipojit se vina\u0159i z jin\u00fdch region\u016f, proto se n\u00e1zev zm\u011bnil, a slo\u017een\u00ed skupiny se stal roz\u0161i\u0159ovat.\n<\/p>\n

\nRozd\u00e1ny poplatky GPdE v tom, \u017ee ona, ve skute\u010dnosti, je elitn\u00ed klub vina\u0159\u016f s placen\u00fdm \u010dlenstv\u00edm. Poplatek za \u010dlenstv\u00ed v n\u00ed opravdu je, a ro\u010dn\u00ed poplatky. Ale v organizaci tvrd\u00ed, \u017ee tyto pen\u00edze jdou na financov\u00e1n\u00ed marketingov\u00fdch a dal\u0161\u00edch aktivit, zam\u011b\u0159en\u00fdch na realizaci c\u00edl\u016f sdru\u017een\u00ed, a tato \u010dinnost m\u00e1 \u00fa\u010del dosa\u017een\u00ed zisku.\n<\/p>\n

\nA\u0165 u\u017e to bylo, ale v seznamu jeho \u010dlen\u016f jm\u00e9na jako Mas Doix z \u041f\u0440\u0438\u043e\u0440\u0430\u0442\u0430, Vallegarcia z Kastilie a Bodega Mustiguillo z Valencie.\n <\/p>\n

„Pago“: krit\u00e9ria stavu<\/h2>\n

\n Aby jako Vino de Pago, konkr\u00e9tn\u00ed vina\u0159sk\u00e9 zem\u011bd\u011blstv\u00ed mus\u00ed spl\u0148ovat jedine\u010dn\u00fd krit\u00e9ria na klima a slo\u017een\u00ed p\u016fdy, zajistit vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed pouze vlastn\u00ed hrozny a \u0431\u0443\u0442\u0438\u043b\u0438\u0440\u043e\u0432\u0430\u043d\u0438\u0435 v\u00edna na \u00fazem\u00ed farmy. I kdy\u017e v posledn\u00edm povoleny n\u011bkter\u00e9 z\u00e1konn\u00e9 v\u00fdjimky, kter\u00e9 jen komplikuj\u00ed porozum\u011bn\u00ed.\n <\/p>\n

\nKrom\u011b toho, pro z\u00edsk\u00e1n\u00ed statusu Vino de Pago zem\u011bd\u011blstv\u00ed by m\u011blo minim\u00e1ln\u011b posledn\u00edch 10 let produkovat „v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u00e9“ v\u00edna, co\u017e je docela subjektivn\u00ed.\n <\/p>\n

\nPravidla pro za\u0159azen\u00ed na seznam GPdE ne m\u00e9n\u011b v\u00e1gn\u00ed. Stejn\u011b jako v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b Vino de Pago, uchaze\u010d by m\u011bl poskytnout zevrubn\u00fd popis sv\u00e9 vinice, v\u00fdrobu a filozofie, plus proj\u00edt \u0434\u0435\u0433\u0443\u0441\u0442\u0430\u0446\u0438\u043e\u043d\u043d\u0443\u044e posouzen\u00ed zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00edho v\u00fdboru pro potvrzen\u00ed kvality. Tak\u00e9 je pot\u0159eba p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh skute\u010dn\u00e9ho komer\u010dn\u00edho \u00fasp\u011bchu a uzn\u00e1n\u00ed kritik\u016f \u2013 \u017ee taky bude souhlasit, velmi subjektivn\u00ed.\n<\/p>\n

\nRychl\u00fd rozvoj kategorie GPdE jasn\u011b p\u0159edj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed klasifikaci. A nen\u00ed divu: v prvn\u00ed se mohou dostat vina\u0159stv\u00ed z \u0161umiv\u00e9ho v\u00edna Cava, Bierzo, \u0421\u043e\u043c\u043e\u043d\u0442\u0430\u043d\u043e, Rioja, Toro a tak d\u00e1le, a Vinos de Pago je omezena jen p\u00e1r region\u016f, v nich\u017e dominuje Kastilie-La Mancha. Tato situace se vyvinula z toho d\u016fvodu, \u017ee i kdy\u017e je t\u0159\u00edda Vino de Pago a byl schv\u00e1len na st\u00e1tn\u00ed \u00farovni, ka\u017ed\u00fd region by m\u011bl ratifikovat jeho vlastn\u00ed, a to se zat\u00edm ud\u011blali m\u00e1lo.\n<\/p>\n

\nJak \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 expert na \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9 v\u00edno \u010dasopisu Decanter, probl\u00e9m \u2013 nedostatek pocitu hodnoty vlastn\u00ed region. „J\u00e1 bych \u0159ekl, \u017ee Vino de Pago \u043f\u0440\u0438\u0436\u0438\u043b\u043e\u0441\u044c tam, kde m\u00edstn\u00ed vina\u0159i jsou velmi hrd\u00ed na nativn\u00ed \u0430\u043f\u0435\u043b\u043b\u0430\u0441\u044c\u043e\u043d\u043e\u043c \u2013 nap\u0159\u00edklad v Nava\u0159e, La \u041c\u0430\u043d\u0447\u0435 a ve Valencii,“ \u0159\u00edk\u00e1. \u2013 M\u00edsto toho, aby spole\u010dn\u011b zv\u00fd\u0161it \u00farove\u0148 rodn\u00e9ho kraje, v\u00fdrobci a politici rad\u011bji vytvo\u0159it \u043d\u0435\u043f\u043e\u043d\u044f\u0442\u043d\u0443\u044e pr\u00e1vn\u00ed konstrukci, v \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b nesouvis\u00ed ani s \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0440\u0443\u0430\u0440\u043e\u043c, ani s m\u00edstn\u00edmi tradicemi vina\u0159stv\u00ed“.\n<\/p>\n

\n Je z\u0159ejm\u00e9, \u017ee ob\u011b t\u0159\u00eddy spojuje my\u0161lenka propagace v\u00edna „jednoho hospod\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed“, ale GPdE, ani\u017e by \u0441\u043a\u043e\u0432\u0430\u043d\u043d\u0430 byrokratick\u00fdm byrokratick\u00fdmi p\u0159ek\u00e1\u017ekami, m\u00e1 v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed prostor pro rozvoj.\n <\/p>\n

\nV d\u016fsledku v\u00fd\u0161e uveden\u00e9 okolnosti, je to pr\u00e1v\u011b t\u0159\u00edda GPdE kombinuje mnoho hv\u011bzd \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9ho vina\u0159stv\u00ed, ale s \u0431\u0440\u043e\u0441\u0430\u044e\u0449\u0438\u043c\u0441\u044f do o\u010d\u00ed nedostatkem v n\u011bm hv\u011bzdy Vega Sicilia, Pingus a L ‚ Ermita, jejich\u017e pov\u011bst je takov\u00e1, \u017ee u nich nen\u00ed t\u0159eba v tomto \u010dlenstv\u00ed. <\/p>\n

\nPro spravedlnost, sdru\u017een\u00ed GPdE nen\u00ed prohla\u0161uje o sob\u011b jako o jednotn\u00e9m registru nejlep\u0161\u00edch v\u00edn \u0160pan\u011blska. I kdy\u017e pravideln\u011b d\u00e1v\u00e1 hlas jak\u00e9si kolektivn\u00ed vizi a jednotn\u00fd postoj.<\/p>\n

\nS Vino de Pago st\u00e1le obt\u00ed\u017en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed<\/h3>\n

\nTo jako taky je zam\u011b\u0159ena na unik\u00e1tn\u00ed vina\u0159stv\u00ed, pracuj\u00edc\u00ed pouze na sv\u00e9m hroznech. Ale um\u00edst\u011bn\u00ed t\u00e9to t\u0159\u00eddy, jak je lep\u0161\u00ed na \u00farove\u0148 tradi\u010dn\u00ed \u0430\u043f\u0435\u043b\u043b\u0430\u0441\u044c\u043e\u043d\u044b s jejich starou histori\u00ed \u2013 trochu odrazuj\u00ed. T\u00edm v\u00edce, \u017ee tato kategorie je omezena, je zat\u00edm jen m\u00e1lo \u0432\u0438\u043d\u043e\u0434\u0435\u043b\u044c\u0447\u0435\u0441\u043a\u0438\u043c\u0438 \u00fazem\u00ed \u0160pan\u011blska.\n<\/p>\n

\nNicm\u00e9n\u011b, Tony \u0421\u0430\u0440\u0440\u0438\u043e\u043d z Bodega Mustiguillo, kter\u00e9 je \u010dlenem obou skupin \u2013 s \u043f\u043e\u043c\u0435\u0441\u0442\u044c\u0435\u043c El Terrerazo (Vino de Pago + GPdE) a Finca Calvestra (GPdE) \u2013 domn\u00edv\u00e1 se, \u017ee ka\u017ed\u00e9 m\u00e1 sv\u00e9 v\u00fdhody: „Vino de Pago znamen\u00e1, \u017ee n\u00e1s \u0441\u0442\u0435\u0441\u043d\u044f\u044e\u0442 p\u0159\u00edsn\u00e1 pravidla DO, a GPdE umo\u017e\u0148uje v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed m\u00ed\u0159e rozv\u00edjet my\u0161lenku Vino de Pago“.<\/p>\n

\nAdolfo Ornos, hlavn\u00ed v\u00fdkonn\u00fd a vina\u0159 v Vallegarcia (\u010dlen GPdE), tak\u00e9 v\u011b\u0159\u00ed, \u017ee i p\u0159es zmatek, \u010dlenstv\u00ed v obou m\u00e1 smysl: „Vino de Pago znamen\u00e1, \u017ee jsi jedine\u010dn\u00fd, ale p\u0159itom jsi poskytnuta sami sob\u011b, pomoci do\u010dkat. To je v\u00fdhoda GPdE \u2013 siln\u00e9 propojen\u00ed v\u00fdrobc\u016f s vysp\u011bl\u00fdmi vn\u011bj\u0161\u00edmi vazbami. Uvnit\u0159 t\u00e9to skupiny jsme taky spolupracujeme, sd\u00edl\u00edme zku\u0161enosti a n\u00e1pady“.<\/p>\n

\nDo jak\u00e9 m\u00edry se tyto syst\u00e9my nach\u00e1zej\u00ed odezvu u \u0161\u00editsk\u00fdch prot\u011bj\u0161k\u016f s ostatn\u00edmi evropsk\u00fdmi vinn\u00fdmi organizacemi a \u043a\u043b\u0430\u0441\u0441\u0438\u0444\u0438\u043a\u0430\u0446\u0438\u044f\u043c\u0438, jako nap\u0159\u00edklad Chianti Classico Gran Selezione v It\u00e1lii nebo VDP v N\u011bmecku, i kdy\u017e ne kop\u00edrovat ani jednu z nich. <\/p>\n

Nejlep\u0161\u00ed v\u00edna ve \u0160pan\u011blsku..?<\/h2>\n

\nModern\u00ed pojet\u00ed \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9ho „pago“, obecn\u011b, je u\u0161lechtil\u00fd \u2013 zejm\u00e9na v \u010d\u00e1sti nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edch po\u017eadavk\u016f (alespo\u0148 na pap\u00ed\u0159e) k mnoha proces\u016fm na vinici a ve vina\u0159stv\u00ed.\n<\/p>\n

\nAle \u0441\u0443\u043c\u044f\u0442\u0438\u0446\u0430 s realizac\u00ed vznikl od za\u010d\u00e1tku, kdy tv\u016frci Vino de Pago bez okolk\u016f \u0432\u043e\u0434\u0440\u0443\u0437\u0438\u043b\u0438 na vrchol cel\u00e9 \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9 klasifikace. Vzhledem k tomu, jak omezen\u00fd je zat\u00edm geografie t\u00e9to t\u0159\u00eddy, se st\u00e1v\u00e1 z\u0159ejm\u00e9, jeho politick\u00e1 slo\u017eka. <\/p>\n

\nNepochybn\u00e9 hodnoty obou skupin \u2013 v \u0159ad\u011b p\u0159\u00edsn\u00e9 po\u017eadavky na kvalitu, kter\u00e9 je nutn\u00e9 dodr\u017eet pro z\u00edsk\u00e1n\u00ed \u010dlenstv\u00ed. Tj. spot\u0159ebitel je opr\u00e1vn\u011bn se spolehnout alespo\u0148 na to, \u017ee kupuje kvalitn\u00ed v\u00fdrobek. <\/p>\n

\nVe stejn\u00e9 dob\u011b, ani n\u00e1pis DO Vino de Pago, ani zna\u010dka Grandes Pagos de Espana nezaru\u010d\u00ed, \u017ee jsi \u043f\u043e\u043a\u0443\u043f\u0430\u0435\u0448\u044c to nejlep\u0161\u00ed, co dok\u00e1\u017e\u00ed vina\u0159i \u0160pan\u011blsku.\n<\/p>\n

\nPosu\u010fte sami: Pingus \u2013 to je v\u00edno „jednoho hospod\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed“, jako Vega Sicilia Unico. A tak pro jistotu a Peter \u0421\u0438\u0441\u0441\u0435\u043a, a Pablo Alvarez velmi \u0434\u043e\u0442\u043e\u0448\u043d\u044b v oblasti vina\u0159stv\u00ed. P\u0159i tomto, ani jeden, ani druh\u00fd nejsou zahrnuty ani do jedn\u00e9 ze skupin. A ur\u010dit\u011b maj\u00ed co \u0159\u00edci o Vino de Pago jako vrchol \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9ho vina\u0159stv\u00ed.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u0417\u0430\u0442\u0435\u0439\u043b\u0438\u0432\u044b\u0439 vzoru evropsk\u00fdch vina\u0159sk\u00fdch klasifikace je schopen vstoupit do n\u011bmoty. Tady je je\u0161t\u011b jedna vr\u00e1ska na \u0441\u043c\u043e\u0440\u0449\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044b\u0439 v nap\u011bt\u00ed \u010delo. Nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed stupe\u0148 ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2994","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-informace"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2994","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2994"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2994\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2994"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2994"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2994"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}