{"id":2939,"date":"2020-01-09T11:29:33","date_gmt":"2020-01-09T08:29:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/proc-a-odkud\/"},"modified":"2020-01-09T11:29:33","modified_gmt":"2020-01-09T08:29:33","slug":"proc-a-odkud","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/proc-a-odkud\/","title":{"rendered":"Pro\u010d a odkud?"},"content":{"rendered":"

\n U\u017e jste n\u011bkdy divili, pro\u010d Chianti p\u0159estal prod\u00e1vat v prout\u011bn\u00e9 ko\u0161\u00edky, jak\u00fd postoj T\u00e1ta m\u00e1 k Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape a pro\u010d u n\u011bkter\u00fdch lahv\u00ed dno je ploch\u00e9, zat\u00edmco u jin\u00fdch \u0432\u043e\u0433\u043d\u0443\u0442\u043e\u0435?<\/p>\n

Zde jsou odpov\u011bdi na n\u011bkter\u00e9 z t\u011bchto d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fdch ot\u00e1zek.<\/p>\n

„Fiasco“ Chianti<\/h2>\n

\nKa\u017ed\u00fd, kdo nav\u0161t\u00edvil v italsk\u00fdch restaurac\u00edch, jist\u011b naraz\u00edte s \u043f\u0443\u0437\u0430\u0442\u044b\u043c\u0438 lahv\u00ed chianti v prout\u00ed \u043a\u043e\u0440\u0437\u0438\u043d\u043a\u0430\u0445. Nej\u010dast\u011bj\u0161\u00ed kdysi charakteristick\u00e9 l\u00e1hve jsou nyn\u00ed \u010dasto pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed jako prvek v\u00fdzdoby, a jako v\u00e1zy a sv\u00edcny.\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nHistoricky, jejich popularita je zp\u016fsobeno t\u00edm, \u017ee byly pevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed dal\u0161\u00edch lahv\u00ed, tak\u017ee p\u0159ibl\u00ed\u017eil dlouh\u00e9 \u0442\u0440\u0430\u043d\u0441\u043f\u043e\u0440\u0442\u0438\u0440\u043e\u0432\u043e\u043a a dostupnost prout\u011bn\u00fd krabice \u0438\u0437\u0431\u0430\u0432\u043b\u044f\u043b\u043e t\u0159eba ud\u011blat ploch\u00e9 dno a proto byly a jsou levn\u00e9. Ve stejn\u00e9 dob\u011b, hrub\u00fd vzhled t\u011bchto lahv\u00ed se stal pevn\u011b spojena s pom\u011brn\u011b mizern\u00fd jejich obsah \u2013 proto\u017ee kdy\u017e n\u011bco chianti byla nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u043f\u043e\u0439\u043b\u043e\u043c, kter\u00fdm roln\u00edci \u0437\u0430\u043f\u0438\u0432\u0430\u043b\u0438 ob\u011bd, stejn\u011b jako plat\u00ed dan\u011b.\n<\/p>\n

\nV ital\u0161tin\u011b slovo fiasco znamenalo prost\u011b „\u0444\u043b\u044f\u0436\u043a\u0430“, ale v\u00fdznam tohoto slova je v mnoha jin\u00fdch jazyc\u00edch vyvolalo posm\u011bch nad \u0441\u043b\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0441\u043e\u0447\u0435\u0442\u0430\u043d\u0438\u0435\u043c chianti fiasco, \u0437\u0432\u0443\u0447\u0430\u0432\u0448\u0443\u044e jako ot\u00e1zka: „je pravda, zda se slovo fiasco k l\u00e1hvi nebo k jeho obsahu?“\n<\/p>\n

\nPodle toho, jak se vina\u0159i za\u010dali zvy\u0161ovat kvalitu sv\u00fdch v\u00edn, kter\u00e9 se staly vyhnout tradi\u010dn\u00edch lahv\u00ed v \u043e\u043f\u043b\u0435\u0442\u043a\u0435 a rad\u011bji pevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u0431\u043e\u0440\u0434\u043e\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0435 l\u00e1hve. V roce 1980 konsorcia Chianti Classico definitivn\u011b zak\u00e1zala pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed t\u011bchto lahv\u00ed pro sv\u00e9 vlastn\u00ed v\u00edno.\n<\/p>\n

\u041f\u0440\u043e\u0432\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0447\u043a\u0430 na \u0420\u0438\u043e\u0445\u0435<\/h2>\n

<\/p>\n

Vedle modern\u00ed lahv\u00ed Rioja s efektn\u00ed geometrick\u00fd logem je v\u017edy mo\u017en\u00e9 naj\u00edt tradi\u010dn\u00ed vzory se zlatou reli\u00e9fn\u00ed, gotick\u00fdm p\u00edsmem a \u0441\u0435\u0442\u043e\u0447\u043a\u043e\u0439 z tenk\u00e9ho dr\u00e1tu zlat\u00e9 barvy, \u043e\u0431\u0440\u0430\u043c\u043b\u044f\u044e\u0449\u0435\u0439 l\u00e1hev.\n<\/p>\n

\nTento dopln\u011bk byl vynalezen Hurtado de \u0410\u043c\u0435\u0441\u0430\u0433\u0430 z Marques de Riscal ve snaze zabr\u00e1nit podvody vyd\u00e1vat levn\u00e9 \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9 v\u00edno za top-end pozice Rioja, \u043f\u0435\u0440\u0435\u043a\u043b\u0435\u0438\u0432\u0430\u044f \u0161t\u00edtky.\n<\/p>\n

\nS \u010dasem, je to praktick\u00e9 dopln\u011bn\u00ed prom\u011bnil v presti\u017en\u00ed atribut: zlat\u00e1 m\u0159\u00ed\u017eka na l\u00e1hve jakoby poukazovalo „to v\u00edno stoj\u00ed za to, aby ho tvo\u0159it“. Dnes, jeho funkce je \u010dist\u011b dekorativn\u00ed pletiva, snadno se odstran\u00ed z l\u00e1hve a nep\u0159edstavuje zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed ru\u0161en\u00ed… pro st\u0159\u00edzliv\u00fd.\n<\/p>\n

„Punt“ \u2013 \u0432\u043e\u0433\u043d\u0443\u0442\u043e\u0435 dn\u011b lahve<\/h2>\n

Existuje n\u011bjak\u00e9 pot\u011b\u0161en\u00ed v tom, aby si dr\u017e\u00ed l\u00e1hev, \u0441\u0443\u043d\u0443\u0432 palec v zaoblen\u00fd \u043b\u043e\u0436\u0431\u0438\u043d\u043a\u0443…\n<\/p>\n

\nNicm\u00e9n\u011b, na rozd\u00edl od v\u0161eobecn\u00e9ho m\u00fdtu, jeho dostupnost, ne\u0159\u00edk\u00e1 nic o kvalit\u011b v\u00edna v l\u00e1hvi.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Podle jedn\u00e9 verze (\u00fadajn\u011b, francouzsk\u00e9), je to prohlouben\u00ed tzv. „punt“, bylo pou\u017eito v „design“ s lahv\u00ed Bordeaux a Burgundska \u2013 pro poskytnut\u00ed jim lep\u0161\u00ed p\u0159epravitelnost: na v\u00fdhodn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed dopravovat je na zemi a p\u0159es oce\u00e1n. Pro \u010derven\u00e1 v\u00edna „punt“ dokazuj\u00ed schopnost shroma\u017e\u010fovat kolem sebe sediment, kter\u00fd se usazuje mezi n\u00edm a st\u011bnou l\u00e1hve a ne se ty\u010d\u00ed v \u043d\u0430\u043b\u0438\u0432\u0430\u043d\u0438\u0438.<\/p>\n

Podle jin\u00e9 verze, je to deprese \u2013 d\u016fsledek nedokonalosti technologi\u00ed, nen\u00ed \u043f\u043e\u0437\u0432\u043e\u043b\u044f\u0432\u0448\u0438\u0445 d\u011blat dokonale rovn\u00e9 dno, proto\u017ee to, co l\u00e1hev, nebo \u0161patn\u00e9 st\u00e1la na rovin\u011b, nebo \u0446\u0430\u0440\u0430\u043f\u0430\u043b\u0430 st\u016fl \u0161ev, a „\u0432\u0434\u0443\u0432\u0430\u043d\u0438\u0435“ dna dovnit\u0159 \u0443\u0441\u0442\u0440\u0430\u043d\u044f\u043b\u043e tyto probl\u00e9my.<\/p>\n

\nN\u011bmeck\u00e9 „fl\u00e9tny“ (prot\u00e1hl\u00fd l\u00e1hev), ve kter\u00e9 \u0440\u0430\u0437\u043b\u0438\u0432\u0430\u043b\u0441\u044f ryzlink r\u00fdnsk\u00fd, tram\u00edn \u010derven\u00fd a rulandsk\u00e9 \u0161ed\u00e9, nemaj\u00ed takov\u00e9 prohlouben\u00ed. Bu\u010f proto, \u017ee jejich \u0441\u0442\u0435\u043f\u0435\u043d\u043d\u043e \u043a\u0430\u0442\u0430\u043b\u0438 na \u0431\u0430\u0440\u0436\u0430\u0445 na R\u00fdn\u011b, a to bu\u010f proto, \u017ee u b\u00edl\u00fdch v\u00edn nem\u00e1 takov\u00e9 probl\u00e9my s sedimentu. Bu\u010f skl\u00e1\u0159\u016f a za\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed, kter\u00e9 byly historicky nejlep\u0161\u00ed francouzsk\u00fdch.<\/p>\n

Nicm\u00e9n\u011b, pro lahve \u0161ampa\u0148sk\u00e9ho konk\u00e1vn\u00ed tvar dna, je opravdu opr\u00e1vn\u011bn\u00e1 ot\u00e1zkami pevnost \u2013 tato l\u00e1hev je lep\u0161\u00ed vydr\u017eet vysok\u00fd tlak zevnit\u0159.<\/p>\n

Ve stejn\u00e9 dob\u011b, ploch\u00e9 dno u l\u00e1hve \u0161ampa\u0148sk\u00e9ho, „Crystal“ od Louis \u0420\u0435\u0434\u0435\u0440\u0435\u0440, zn\u00e1m\u00e9ho t\u00edm, \u017ee byl vytvo\u0159en pro rusk\u00e9ho cara Alexandra II. Podle legendy, \u0431\u043e\u044f\u0432\u0448\u0438\u0439\u0441\u044f \u043f\u043e\u043a\u0443\u0448\u0435\u043d\u0438\u0439 monarcha napadlo, \u017ee je v prohlubuj\u00edc\u00ed se m\u016f\u017eete schovat bombu, a pod tmav\u00fdm sklem m\u016f\u017ee \u010d\u00edhat jed. \u00dadajn\u011b pr\u00e1v\u011b v d\u016fsledku carsk\u00e9 paranoia u tohoto champagne \u2013 k\u0159i\u0161\u0165\u00e1lov\u011b \u010dir\u00e1 l\u00e1hev z k\u0159i\u0161\u0165\u00e1lov\u00e9ho skla a ploch\u00e9 dno.\n<\/p>\n

Vyv\u00fd\u0161en\u00e9 kl\u00e1vesy Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape<\/h2>\n

<\/p>\n

\nFrancouzsk\u00e1 v\u00edna \u0430\u043f\u0435\u043b\u043b\u0430\u0441\u044c\u043e\u043d\u0430 Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape z Ji\u017en\u00ed Rh\u00f4ny \u2013 jedny z nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00edch ve vinn\u00e9m sv\u011bt\u011b. Mo\u017en\u00e1, budete muset jejich pit\u00ed, ale t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 jist\u011b budete narazili na o\u010di tyto renomovan\u00e9 l\u00e1hev s obr\u00e1zkem p\u0159ek\u0159\u00ed\u017een\u00e9 kl\u00ed\u010de.<\/p>\n

Dobr\u00fd Ch\u00e2teauneuf nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed nestane. Stejn\u011b jako l\u00e1hev pro n\u011bj. Na ka\u017ed\u00e9 reli\u00e9fu do pape\u017esk\u00e9ho tisk.\n<\/p>\n

V 14 stolet\u00ed se pape\u017esk\u00fd dv\u016fr p\u0159est\u011bhoval do Avignonu na jihu a \u00dadol\u00ed Rh\u00f4ny. Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape \u2013 doslovn\u011b „nov\u00fd hrad Pape\u017ee“ \u2013 se stal jeho nov\u00fdm \u0432\u043e\u0442\u0447\u0438\u043d\u043e\u0439. A t\u00e1ta se pustil napl\u00e1cat svou pe\u010de\u0165 vlevo a vpravo, \u043e\u0441\u0435\u043d\u044f\u044f ji l\u00e1hve s m\u00edstn\u00ed v\u00edno na b\u00e1zi odr\u016fd Grenache (neopomenout sledovat jejich obsah, samoz\u0159ejm\u011b). Po \u0161est stalet\u00ed tato pe\u010de\u0165 se stala ned\u00edlnou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed zna\u010dky Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape.\n<\/p>\n

Franck\u00e9 \u0431\u043e\u043a\u0441\u0431\u043e\u0439\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044c<\/h2>\n

Tento byt, jako \u0441\u043e\u043b\u0434\u0430\u0442\u0441\u043a\u0443\u044e \u0444\u043b\u044f\u0436\u043a\u0443 l\u00e1hev, p\u016fvodem z n\u011bmeck\u00e9 Franconia. Ale zn\u00e1me ji sp\u00ed\u0161e d\u00edky portugalsk\u00e1 vinu \u041c\u0430\u0442\u0435\u0443\u0448 Rose (Mateus Ros\u00e9). <\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\u0411\u043e\u043a\u0441\u0431\u043e\u0439\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044c (n\u011bm. bocksbeutel), o z\u00e1kladn\u00ed verzi, dostal sv\u00e9 jm\u00e9no d\u00edky podobnosti s tvarovanou koz\u00ed \u0161ourku (bocks \u2013 koza, beutel \u2013 pytel, a tak w. \u0161ourek). Jist\u011b, venkovsk\u00fdm obyvatel\u016fm hodnotit tuto um\u011bleckou paralelu jednodu\u0161\u0161\u00ed. Ob\u010dan\u00e9 na tuto verzi mus\u00ed vz\u00edt na v\u00edru.\n<\/p>\n

Je to tak, nebo ne, ale ploch\u00fd tvar umo\u017e\u0148uje l\u00e1hvi z\u016fstat tam, kde ji spadl na zem, a ne \u0443\u043a\u0430\u0442\u0438\u0442\u044c\u0441\u044f pry\u010d \u2013 co je cenn\u00e9 pro v\u0161echny, pije jako franck\u00e9ho sedl\u00e1k.\n<\/p>\n

Pozd\u011bji (v 1950\u0445), tento formul\u00e1\u0159 uskute\u010d\u0148oval portugalsk\u00fd v\u00fdrobce „zelen\u00e9ho“ v\u00edna , \u010d\u00edm\u017e se na trh jej\u00ed okouzluj\u00edc\u00ed zna\u010dku lehce \u0161umiv\u00e9, \u0441\u043b\u0430\u0434\u043a\u043e\u0432\u0430\u0442\u043e\u0433\u043e r\u016f\u017eov\u00e9ho v\u00edna \u041c\u0430\u0442\u0435\u0443\u0448 Rose. Tvar l\u00e1hve se uk\u00e1zala b\u00fdt dobr\u00fdm marketingov\u00fdm tahem. N\u00edzk\u00e9 lahve \u041c\u0430\u0442\u0435\u0443\u0448 nebylo vid\u011bt za ostatn\u00edmi \u2013 standardn\u00ed \u2013 ale na rozd\u00edl od obavy syn zakladatele, \u0159editel spole\u010dnosti vid\u011bl v tomto v\u00fdhodu: je to z d\u016fvodu jejich n\u00edzk\u00e9 „r\u016fstu“ prodejci se staly vystavovat v prvn\u00ed \u0159ad\u011b na polici.\n<\/p>\n

Etiketu v\u00edna p\u0159idala lesk obr\u00e1zek hradu \u041c\u0430\u0442\u0435\u0443\u0448 Palace, kter\u00fd nem\u011bl vztah k v\u00fdrobci, ale byl m\u00edstn\u00ed turistickou atrakc\u00ed. Za pou\u017eit\u00ed obr\u00e1zku hradu, jeho majitel dostal od vina\u0159 solidn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1stku. Od pr\u00e1v na malou \u010d\u00e1st p\u0159\u00edjm\u016f z budouc\u00edho prodeje (m\u00edsto velk\u00e9 jednor\u00e1zov\u00e9 platby), majitel hradu odm\u00edtl. A ne h\u00e1dat se. V 1980\u0445 \u041c\u0430\u0442\u0435\u0443\u0448 Roze \u010dinil asi 40% v\u00fdvozu konzumn\u00edch v\u00edn v Portugalsku.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

U\u017e jste n\u011bkdy divili, pro\u010d Chianti p\u0159estal prod\u00e1vat v prout\u011bn\u00e9 ko\u0161\u00edky, jak\u00fd postoj T\u00e1ta m\u00e1 k Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape a pro\u010d u n\u011bkter\u00fdch lahv\u00ed dno…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1268,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2939","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-informace"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2939","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2939"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2939\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2939"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2939"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vine-nn.ru\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2939"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}